[OMC-Boats] Sport Fisherman

From: Thomas Klauber <tklauber@...>
Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2008 15:43:14 -0400

First, be sure you want to go boating because any boat is a hole you throw
money into but there ain't nuttin like plowing through the waves in one of
these trihulls! Start with a trailer - an aluminum I beam with bunks is the
way I would go. Get tandem axle if possible. These boats are very heavy. I
have WESCO alum. tandem axle under my 1969 19 ft. Rogue. The trailers are
made in West Columbia SC - get a local trailer if possible. Do not tow with
mooring cover on. Get a Seloc manual. You are permitted (and encouraged) to
do any repairs yourself. Do not assume the engine needs an overhaul just
because of age as these outdrives were built to last and will, if taken care
of. They can not be neglected but can take abuse. You are not dealing with
new junk here and you will come to appreciate the old girl as time goes by.
You can get all the outdrive (engine and sterndrive) parts you need - they
are expensive like anything with MARINE on the label. I would be very
careful with the wiring harnesses in the engine compartment as they do not
age as well - the insulation to the wires gets brittle and you end up with
lots of bare wires. You may need a rewire ( MARINE WIRE ONLY )- the
harnesses and hull parts are essentially not available. You can get a
mechanic to look at it and asses the needed work. I would not do a lot to
the hull now as they are pretty thick and you can do the cosmetics last.
Don't start a lot of projects at once but take a systematic approach till
the boat is reliable in the water then you can do the cosmetic stuff. I am
assuming the boat has not been sunk or stood out in the weather too long
with puddles of water and ice in the hull. The boats have a lot of styrofoam
under the deck and this can get waterlogged if left out in the elements. The
wooden components of the hull will rot allowing this water to get under the
deck into the foam. The drive system can be evaluated by draining the oil in
the upper and lower cases and the small chamber where the motor tilt is -
any water in these areas could be a problem - if I found water I would be
tempted to drain fully and refill with oil and run awhile to see if it is
mechanically OK then I would redrain and likely it will have water in it
again, but you would only need a seal kit and not some expensive rebuild -
that's your call. Check the engine oil for water - I have driven mine a
while with a small water leak into the oil so it is not going to kill it but
it will need to be fixed. I had a leak in the intake manifold gasket. A
lucky cheap fix.
Good luck. We are all pulling for you. Let us know where you are and the
size and year of the boat and don't forget to put some photos on the site.
The season is over pretty much now so it is a good time to get to work! Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: <omc-boats-request@...>
To: <omc-boats@...>
Sent: Sunday, October 26, 2008 12:00 PM
Subject: OMC-Boats Digest, Vol 18, Issue 2

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> Today's Topics:
> 1. Tips on bringing Sport Fisherman back to life (Thomas Hovind)
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> Message: 1
> Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2008 09:41:37 -0400
> From: Thomas Hovind <tchovind@...>
> Subject: [OMC-Boats] Tips on bringing Sport Fisherman back to life
> To: omc-boats@...
> Message-ID: <49047391.7090906@...>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
> I've been given an Evinrude Sport Fisherman of an unknown year, 4 cyl.
> As this vessel hasn't seen water in 35 years I'm not sure where to begin
> or what to keep an eye out for.
> It will still probably be another 3 years until I can get the boat in
> the water, but seeing as this is a rare boat I thought I'd try into the
> groups collective knowledge and file this information away for when I
> can use it.
> I suppose the first thing I'll need will be a trailer. So any
> recommendations on them would appreciated. I'm thinking of an aluminum I
> beam trailer, single axle with disc brakes and torsion suspension. I'm
> mixed on roller or bunk style, and of course welcome recommendations on
> that and manufacturer. If it matters I plan to tow it with a 1/2 ton
> pickup. Another question about trailering, should trailer it with the
> mooring cover on or off?
> After getting it out of the garage I think the next logical thing to
> look at is the mechanicals. The engine I think I'll be okay with once I
> find a rebuilt kit for it I think I can tackle that without much fuss.
> But I have no idea what to do with the drive system. Is there anything
> unique about it that I should only trust certain boat shops, or is it
> generic enough that any shop would be able to check it out and get it
> back in running order? Given the conditions under which this has been
> stored I suspect that anywhere a rodent could get into, they have, so my
> thought is to disassemble it and make sure there aren't any old nests or
> anything in it first.
> Next up will be patching the nicks and scratches in the hull from 35
> years of being in a garage with children's bikes and toys bumping into
> it. The deepest of these is only about 1/4 inch, and their few and
> mostly at the bow. Additionally the deck surfaces are very faded and
> will need some sort of reconditioning, again anything you're found that
> has worked I'm open to hearing about.
> Any tips, hints, words of wisdom that you may have will be appreciated.
> Are there items that I shouldn't even question but just replace
> (steering and throttle cables come to mind)?
> This is my first boat, and although these rare one's don't seem to be
> worth much, I'd like to keep it as original as possible.
> Thanks, and I hope you all are able to get in a few nice days of boating
> before it turns entirely too cold.
> -Tom
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Received on Sunday, 26 October 2008

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