Re: [OMC-Boats] Thank you: 68 Surfer running great!

From: jd <jdood@...>
Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 19:29:55 -0700

I can also speak first hand about both. a certain person I know was
testing his OMC boat at the dock while still partially on the
trailer. the bow was hooked up to the trailer winch, the stern was
floating and tied securely to the dock with a heavy duty dockline.
this certain person noticed the tide going up and decided to get in
his tow vehicle and pull vehicle and boat forward a bit (forgetting to
untie the back dockline). vehicle would not budge, wheels were
spinning on ramp. he kept trying. finally something gave way and
everything jumped forward. what broke? it wasn't the front eyelet,
it wasn't the back cleat - it was the dockline that broke. Im not
sure, but I think in most other boats that manuever would've resulted
in a big hole in the bow where the front eyelet used to be.

this same certain person was towing another much bigger boat this
summer, hit a bump, and watched the coupler come off the ball.
thanks to the chains the boat never came completely loose. and the
boat probably weighs about 8k, chains are probably rated for much
less. but they worked!

this certain person would be very mad at me for sharing his stupidity
with the world.

On Oct 27, 2009, at 6:31 PM, ANDY PERAKES wrote:

> I noticed the lack of transom eyes on the Craig's list pics Justin
> sent. Odd. I haven't seen that before on this class of boat. Even
> our old woodies had transom eyes. The transom eyes on my Reveler
> are as solid as the bow eye. Good to hear you use a safety line, I
> forgot to mention that! Again, though, beware doing other boats
> like this. As I mentioned, the OMCs are an exception for having
> robust deck cleats.
>
> Btw, in case anyone ever wondered if those trailer safety chains
> work, one of my buddies had his boat break loose (I forget why) a
> few years back and the safety chains held the trailer in place until
> he was able to pull off the freeway. He said it swayed like a
> monster, but it stayed attached and behind him and remarkably there
> was no damage.
>
> Andy
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Doug Julien" <dfjulien@...>
> To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's" <omc-boats@...
> >
> Sent: Tuesday, October 27, 2009 12:10:30 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada
> Eastern
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Thank you: 68 Surfer running great!
>
> Hi Andy:
>
> All good points, but my Sportsmans have no transom eyebolts except
> the center lifting eye. I always tow with a safety line attached to
> the bow eyebolt in case the winch line breaks or slips. I think
> Evinrude designed the rear side tie-downs solely to keep the boat
> from shifting on the bunks when it bounces.
>
> That stem eye in the bow isn't going to pull out - so that's where I
> put the prevention from sliding backward.
>
> -Doug Julien
>
> --- On Tue, 10/27/09, ANDY PERAKES <aperakes@...> wrote:
>
> > From: ANDY PERAKES <aperakes@...>
> > Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Thank you: 68 Surfer running great!
> > To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's" <omc-boats@...
> >
> > Date: Tuesday, October 27, 2009, 10:44 AM
> > #yiv1980776489 p
> > {margin:0;}The purpose of the
> > rear tie down is two-fold, keep the boat from bouncing
> > off the trailer and keep it from sliding backwards should
> > the bow line break. Tying to deck cleats has two
> > problems. First, deck cleats are generally much weaker
> > than transom or bow mounts. They are unusually strong
> > on these old OMC's, but typically they are designed for
> > the relatively light duty loads of mooring. Many deck
> > cleats have been ripped out by unwary sailors who tried to
> > use them to anchor tow lines, occasionally striking a
> > person on the opposite end of the rope with grave
> > results. The second reason is positioning. If
> > you look at John's pictures, you can see the line
> > actually runs forward as it rises. Should the bow line
> > break, the boat will slide back 1 - 2' before the rear
> > lines tighten to hold the boat. Once the boat
> > starts moving, you're dealing with much higher
> > dynamic loads which increase the chances the line will
> > break. Its better than nothing, but its far from
> > optimal.
> >
> > On another note, BoatUS just ran another article on
> > storage with E10. Nothing new (use stabilizer,
> > top off tank), but another interesting read on the
> > topic. If the link works (may be members only),
> > here it is: http://www.nxtbook.com/nxtbooks/boatus/200911/#/66.
> > Lee, related to this topic, I've now talked to two
> > additional triboligists who also agreed that no additive
> > would restore any fuel or lubricant to "factory
> > fresh" condition. All agreed it does help to
> > refresh the additives so at least we know we're not
> > wasting money.
> >
> > Andy
> > '67 Reveler
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Justin DeSantis"
> > <duc1098desmo@...>
> > To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's
> > and 70's" <omc-boats@...>
> > Sent: Monday, October 26, 2009 12:50:45 PM GMT -05:00
> > US/Canada Eastern
> > Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Thank you: 68 Surfer running
> > great!
> >
> > If I'm not mistaken, that tie down arrangement in his
> > pictures is the
> > factory tie down and how Johnson recommends it's tied
> > down.
> >
> > On Mon, Oct 26, 2009 at 12:17 PM, ANDY PERAKES
> > <aperakes@...> wrote:
> > > That is different. Anxious to hear how it
> > works.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > John: I don't know if that's how you
> > usually do your rear tie-downs, but
> > > you should really be attaching to the transom.
> > The upper deck cleat you're
> > > attached to in the photos will allow the boat quite a
> > bit of rearward travel
> > > before cinching up and by then it may be too late.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Andy
> > >
> > > '67 Reveler
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Scott Veazie"
> > <scottveazie@...>
> > > To: omc-boats@...
> > > Sent: Monday, October 26, 2009 11:20:03 AM GMT -05:00
> > US/Canada Eastern
> > > Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Thank you: 68 Surfer running
> > great!
> > >
> > > Hey John,
> > >
> > > I noticed in one of your pics that you had doel-fin
> > type fins on the BACK of
> > > your drive? I've never seen them mounted
> > that way, how well does that
> > > work? Anyone else see what I'm seeing?
> > >
> > > ~Scott
> > >
> > > ________________________________
> > > From: northphx@...
> > > To: omc-boats@...
> > > Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 07:34:57 -0700
> > > Subject: [OMC-Boats] Thank you: 68 Surfer running
> > great!
> > >
> > > Lee (and Forum),
> > >
> > > A quick thank you for the support and recommendations
> > that you've made in
> > > support of my newbie questions. My 67/68 Johnson
> > Surfer is now running very
> > > very well on area lakes. I've completed:
> > >
> > > Documentation: all rig OMC docs acquired on eBay
> > >
> > > Owner's manual
> > > Orig OMC Service Manual for boat (one used by
> > authorized dealer repair
> > > technicians)
> > > Boat Parts
> > > Sterndrive parts
> > >
> > > Boat
> > >
> > > New fuel lines (Used the Stainless steel braided type
> > due to close runs to
> > > the engine)
> > > power-washed both gas tanks, added new hose (flexible
> > stuff from Napa) and
> > > custom cut new gas tank gaskets from cork/rubber
> > gasket material (autozone)
> > > put in a Pertronix Electic Ignition system...don't
> > want to mess with
> > > "Points"...highly recommend this upgrade at
> > ~$85 and 10 mins of work
> > > Rebuilt Carb with CK812 carburetor kit from
> > www.carburetor.ca (Rusty/owner
> > > is VERY helpful and knowledgeable...knew which rebuilt
> > kit to recommend
> > > immediately upon hearing engine and OMC/Marine use)
> > > General electrical repair and clean-up
> > >
> > > Trailer
> > >
> > > Key learning: the rubber stopper on for the bow
> > was incorrectly placed on
> > > top of trailer "stop" and this eliminated
> > critical inches that -once
> > > corrected/place below metal holder- pulled the keel
> > off the rollers
> > > New wheels
> > > Repaired Jack that lifts bow on trailer...seems like a
> > unique design I am
> > > guessing to eliminate requirement for boat ramps (the
> > thing with "teeth"
> > > inside...bearing??...anyway...got lucky and found
> > similar online and matched
> > > the "look" even though from different
> > manufacturer. It works! )
> > > Added trailer Jack to improve safety
> > >
> > > Pictures: I've posted some pics here:
> > >
> > http://cid-475cacc7c0e86c18.skydrive.live.com/browse.aspx/Boat
> > >
> > > btw: since the manifolds are key to life
> > expectancy of this model boat,
> > > there is a cleaning/lining process used by local hot
> > rod and classic car
> > > shops that I am considering. The process
> > involves sand blasting, acid
> > > washing, and some type of "hot blue/Jet
> > blue" process by which a synthetic
> > > coating is put onto the parts that eliminates rust and
> > reduces build up. As
> > > I explore further, I'll share my findings with the
> > forum.
> > >
> > > Again, thanks for the support!
> > >
> > > Best,
> > > John
> > > ________________________________
> > > Windows 7: Simplify your PC. Learn more.
> > > _______________________________________________
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Received on Tuesday, 27 October 2009

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