Re: [OMC-Boats] 67 Surfer rear tie-downs and links to manuals

From: Don Mandelas <dmandelas@...>
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 2009 04:51:08 -0700

 

Regarding tie down systems;

 

When I purchased my 1967 Evinrude Sportrsman in 2001 the boat came with the original Evinrude trailer which still had the manufactures deck cleat tie down system intacked. My tie system is the exact same set up as shown in the 1967 Johnson Surfer owners manual that John sent earlier.

 

I used this system for one year.

What I liked about this system was that it was easy to use. With this system I would release tension on the rope by means of an attached lever and then with the extra slack I would unhook the looped end of the rope from around the rear deck cleat. I would then take that looped end and attach it around a hook that was welded onto the side of the boat trailer, this hook was a special feature made just to secure the rope when not in use. That was it....I was done!

 

All the components to this system were permanently mounted onto the trailer. With this system I spent no time rolling up a strap or looking for a secure place to store the strap when not in use. With this system I could always look into my truck side mirrors and see if the ropes were still securely connected to the boat and trailer.

 

I liked this system also because no one had to walk to the rear most part of the boat in order to tie or untie the rope. Less time spent behind the boat to me means less oporunity for someone to get backed over. Backed over because they are out of view from the Tow vehicle driver. I appreciated this safer feature.

 

What I didn't like about this system was that it provided very little means by which to adjust the rope length. If I understood my manual correctly, when after loading the boat onto the trailer you found the rope to short to reach the deck cleat, you were supposed to grap a wrench and adjust a U-Bolt. Adjust the U-bolt up the trailer side until you gained enough slack to loop the rope back over the deck cleat.

 

After using the original manufactures system for a year I removed it from the trailer.

I then went to using the standard 2 inch transom strap that you see just about everyone else using. I hook one end of the strap to the transoms lift eye and the other end to the trailer U-Bolt.

 

What I do like about this newer system.

The new straps are strong.

The straps are simple to adjust, I can very quickly adjust the length as need.

The boat has less chance of moving rearward on the trailer while being towed down the road.

 

What I don't like about the new straps.

I don't like having to roll them up after disconnecting them from the boat and trailer.

I don't like having to find a secure place to store them when not in use.

No matter how carefully I roll them up they are always tangled when I unroll them, this I don't like.

 

Concerns about the transom tie down system.

With the transom being made of such thin fiberglass, will securing the boat by this method cause the thin transom to buckle downward over time?

 

As for backing the trailer down into the water only until the waterline reaches the trailer wheel rims or until the trailer rear most roller is a few inches above the water?(As suggested in the Evinrude / Johns owners manual).

To this I say "THATS CRAZZY TALK ! "

In my opinion your'll damage the keel of your boat if you do it that way.

Damage the keel because when you winch the boat up out of the water and then onto your Evinrude trailer you'll reach a point where the entire boats weight will rest on a small rearmost 2-1/2 inch center roller.

 

I back the trailer down into the water (Wheels and tires) deep enough so that the boat will roll backwards off the trailer and float just above the rearmost center roller. My trailer has the bearing buddy's, I'm not to worried anymore about water getting into the wheel bearings.

 

I do like the hand crank tilt mechanism that is on this trailer. With this system, if I want, I can tilt the trailer so that the boat will roll off the trailer down into the water without me even touching the boat. I like that.

 

As far as loading the boat onto the trailer.

I back the trailer into the water until it reaches the same depth as I when I unloaded the boat. Then, if needed I tilt the trailer, in order to get the boat to just float over the rear most roller. I attach the hook and winch in the boat. With the new guides that I mounted last spring the boat loads onto the trailer perfectly.

 

Currently tying to the transom

Don.

 

 

 

----- Original Message -----
From: "John Schmelzeis" <northphx@...>
To: omc-boats@...
Sent: Tuesday, October 27, 2009 6:40:45 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: [OMC-Boats] 67 Surfer rear tie-downs and links to manuals

Hi Justin and Andy,

Yes, the use of the cleats is consistent with the instructions on page 13 of the 1967 Johnson Surfer Owner's manual and page 9 in the Johnson 19 ft. boat trailer 1967 Owner's Manual found at the links below that I am providing on chance you find the overall documentation interesting. That said, I am certainly open to the possibility that improvements in approach have occurred since 67'.

1967 Surfer Owner's manual: http://cid-b35b5e0fd3a90c91.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/.Public/1967%20Johnson%20Surfer%20Owner%5E4s%20Manual%20orig.pdf
 
 Johnson 19 ft. boat trailer 1967 Owner's Manual: http://cid-b35b5e0fd3a90c91.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/.Public/Johnson%201967%2019%20ft%20boat%20trailer%20owners%20manual.pdf

 
I'd be interested in people's thoughts and guidance re: the Launching and Loading instructions in the trailer manual (pages 6 - 9). It seems like most folks put their trailers in much deeper than suggested in the manual...in lakes around here (AZ) anyway. Maybe the unique on-trailer jack accounts for the discrepancy?
 
John
                                               
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&nbsp;<BR>
Regarding tie down systems;<BR>
&nbsp;<BR>
When I purchased my 1967 Evinrude Sportrsman in 2001 the boat came with the original Evinrude trailer which&nbsp;still had the manufactures deck cleat tie down system intacked. My&nbsp;tie system&nbsp;is the exact same set up as shown in the 1967 Johnson Surfer owners manual that John sent earlier.<BR>
&nbsp;<BR>
I used this system for one year.&nbsp; <BR>
What I liked about this system was that it was&nbsp;easy&nbsp;to use.&nbsp; With this system I would release&nbsp;tension on the rope by means of an attached&nbsp;lever and then with the extra slack I would&nbsp;unhook the looped end of the rope from&nbsp;around&nbsp;the rear deck cleat.&nbsp; I would then take that looped end&nbsp;and attach it around a hook that was welded onto the side of the boat trailer, this hook was a special feature made just to secure the rope when not in use.&nbsp;That was it....I was done!&nbsp; <BR>
&nbsp;<BR>
All the components to this&nbsp;system were permanently mounted onto the trailer.&nbsp; With this system I spent no time rolling up a&nbsp;strap or&nbsp;looking for&nbsp;a secure place to store the strap when not in use.&nbsp; With this&nbsp;system I could always look into my truck side mirrors and see if the ropes were still securely connected to the boat and trailer. <BR>
&nbsp;<BR>
I liked this system&nbsp;also because no one had to walk to the rear most part of the boat in order to tie or untie the&nbsp;rope.&nbsp;&nbsp;Less time spent behind the boat to me means less oporunity for someone to get backed over.&nbsp; Backed over because they are out of view from the Tow vehicle driver.&nbsp; I appreciated this&nbsp;safer feature.<BR>
&nbsp;<BR>
What I didn't like about this system was that it provided&nbsp;very little means by which to adjust the rope length.&nbsp; If I understood my manual correctly, when after loading the boat onto the trailer you found the rope to short to reach the deck cleat, you were supposed to grap a wrench and adjust a U-Bolt.&nbsp; Adjust the U-bolt up the trailer side until you gained enough slack&nbsp;to loop the rope back over the deck cleat.<BR>
&nbsp;<BR>
After using the original&nbsp;manufactures system for a year I removed it from the trailer.<BR>
I&nbsp;then went to&nbsp;using&nbsp;the standard 2 inch&nbsp;transom strap that you see just about everyone else using.&nbsp; I hook one end of the strap to the transoms lift eye and the other end to the trailer U-Bolt.<BR>
&nbsp;<BR>
What I do like about this newer system.<BR>
The new straps are&nbsp;strong.&nbsp; <BR>
The straps are simple to adjust,&nbsp;I can very quickly adjust the length as need.&nbsp;&nbsp;<BR>
The boat&nbsp;has&nbsp;less chance of moving rearward&nbsp;on the trailer while&nbsp;being towed down the road.<BR>
&nbsp;<BR>
What I don't like about the new straps.<BR>
I don't like having to roll them up after&nbsp;disconnecting them from the boat and trailer.<BR>
I don't like having to find a secure place to store&nbsp;them when not in use.<BR>
No matter how carefully I&nbsp;roll them up they are always tangled when I unroll them, this I don't like.<BR>
&nbsp;<BR>
Concerns about the transom tie down system.<BR>
With the transom being made of such thin fiberglass, will securing the boat by this method cause the&nbsp;thin transom to buckle downward over time?<BR>
&nbsp;<BR>
As for backing the trailer down into the water only until the waterline reaches the trailer wheel rims or until the trailer rear most roller is a few inches above the water?(As suggested in the Evinrude / Johns owners manual).&nbsp;<BR>
To this I say&nbsp;"THATS CRAZZY TALK !&nbsp;"&nbsp; <BR>
In my opinion&nbsp;your'll damage the keel of your boat if you do it that way.<BR>
Damage the keel because when you&nbsp;winch the boat&nbsp;up out of the water and then onto&nbsp;your Evinrude trailer you'll reach a&nbsp;point where the entire boats weight will&nbsp;rest on a small rearmost 2-1/2 inch center roller.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<BR>
&nbsp;<BR>
I back the trailer&nbsp;down into the water&nbsp;(Wheels and tires) deep enough so that the boat will roll backwards off the trailer and float just&nbsp;above the rearmost center roller.&nbsp;&nbsp;My trailer has the bearing buddy's, I'm not to worried anymore about water getting&nbsp;into the wheel bearings.&nbsp;<BR>
&nbsp;<BR>
I do like the hand crank tilt mechanism that is on this trailer.&nbsp; With this system, if I want, I can tilt the trailer so that the&nbsp;boat will roll off the trailer down into the water without me even touching the boat.&nbsp; I like that.<BR>
&nbsp;<BR>
As far as loading the boat onto the trailer.<BR>
I back the trailer into the water until it reaches the same depth as I&nbsp;when I unloaded the boat.&nbsp; Then, if needed I tilt the trailer,&nbsp; in order to get the boat to just float over the rear most roller.&nbsp; I attach the hook and&nbsp;winch in the boat.&nbsp; With the new guides that I mounted last spring the boat loads onto the trailer perfectly.<BR>
&nbsp;<BR>
Currently tying to the transom<BR>
Don.<BR>
&nbsp;<BR>
&nbsp;<BR>
&nbsp;<BR>

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----- Original Message -----<BR>From: "John Schmelzeis" &lt;northphx@....com&gt;<BR>To: omc-boats@...<BR>Sent: Tuesday, October 27, 2009 6:40:45 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern<BR>Subject: [OMC-Boats] 67 Surfer rear tie-downs and links to manuals<BR><BR><BR>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>Hi Justin and Andy,<BR><BR>Yes, the use of the cleats is consistent with the instructions on page 13 of the 1967 Johnson Surfer Owner's manual and page 9 in the Johnson 19 ft. boat trailer 1967 Owner's Manual found at the links below that I am providing on chance you find the overall documentation interesting.&nbsp; That said, I am certainly open to the possibility&nbsp;that improvements in approach have occurred since 67'.<BR><BR>1967 Surfer Owner's manual:&nbsp; </FONT><A title="http://cid-b35b5e0fd3a90c91.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/.Public/1967%20Johnson%20Surfer%20Owner%5E4s%20Manual%20orig.pdf&#10;CTRL + Click to follow link" href="http://cid-b35b5e0fd3a90c91.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/.Public/1967%20Johnson%20Surfer%20Owner^4s%20Manual%20orig.pdf"><FONT title="http://cid-b35b5e0fd3a90c91.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/.Public/1967%20Johnson%20Surfer%20Owner%5E4s%20Manual%20orig.pdf&#10;CTRL + Click to follow link" face=Arial>http://cid-b35b5e0fd3a90c91.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/.Public/1967%20Johnson%20Surfer%20Owner%5E4s%20Manual%20orig.pdf</FONT></A><FONT face=Arial>&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>&nbsp;Johnson 19 ft. boat trailer 1967 Owner's Manual:&nbsp; </FONT><A title="http://cid-b35b5e0fd3a90c91.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/.Public/Johnson%201967%2019%20ft%20boat%20trailer%20owners%20manual.pdf&#10;CTRL + Click to follow link" href="http://cid-b35b5e0fd3a90c91.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/.Public/Johnson%201967%2019%20ft%20boat%20trailer%20owners%20manual.pdf"><FONT title="http://cid-b35b5e0fd3a90c91.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/.Public/Johnson%201967%2019%20ft%20boat%20trailer%20owners%20manual.pdf&#10;CTRL + Click to follow link" face=Arial>http://cid-b35b5e0fd3a90c91.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/.Public/Johnson%201967%2019%20ft%20boat%20trailer%20owners%20manual.pdf</FONT></A><FONT face=Arial>&nbsp;<BR></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial>I'd be interested in people's thoughts and guidance re: the Launching and Loading instructions in the trailer manual (pages 6 - 9).&nbsp;&nbsp;It seems like most folks put their trailers in much deeper than suggested in the manual...in lakes around here (AZ) anyway.&nbsp; Maybe the unique on-trailer jack accounts for the discrepancy?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=Arial><FONT face=Calibri></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV></FONT><FONT face=Arial>John</FONT><BR></DIV></DIV> <br /><hr />Windows 7: I wanted more reliable, now it's more reliable. <a href='http://microsoft.com/windows/windows-7/default.aspx?h=myidea?ocid=PID24727::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WWL_WIN_myidea:102009' target='_new'>Wow!</a></body>
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Received on Wednesday, 28 October 2009

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