From: Andy Perakes <aperakes@...>
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2009 17:06:14 -0400

The hopefully obvious 1st step before attempting a start is to inspect the
engine compartment for any sight or smell of fuel. After you've done that,
run the blower for several minutes. I usually leave the engine hatch open
until it is idling nicely as an added precaution. My Reveler has a lower
engine access hatch that I usually remove too. You can do this in the
water, but I usually make the first start on the trailer with the stern
drive in a garbage can filled with water.

As you probably know, the greatest challenge starting any carburated vehicle
that has been sitting a long time is to get the fuel flowing. First I do a
steady crank of about 5-6 seconds with the choke pulled up and the drive in
neutral. I still have the glass bowl on my fuel pump so after cranking, I
check to be sure it has filled and then I can guage if the bowl on the carb
has started filling too. After that and without cranking the engine, I
remove the flame arrestor and start pumping the throttle (note you can do
this at the engine via the quick-release cable fitting which will release
the entire throttle cable without affecting its adjustment near the carb).
Assuming you have the same Rochester carb, you'll eventually see the fuel
spraying from the 2 priming jets. Once I see the fuel spraying in, I
probably pump another 5-10 times, then put the cable back in place and
reinstall the flame arrestor. Then I start cranking again and will usually
get a turnover/start within another 5-10 seconds of cranking. After it
starts, I back off on the choke until I have a slightly fast idle (about
800-900 rpm on the tach) and I let it run until mildly warm (constantly
checking the water flow). From there I'm ready to hit the launch ramp.
Sometimes it can take 30-40 seconds of cranking, but if you know you have
fuel spritzing at the jets when you pump the throttle, it will eventually
start (assuming nothing else is wrong). Its probably worth adding that I
still follow the owner's manual winterization procedure which consists of
dumping ~1 pint of 30W engine oil down the carb and stalling it out just
before fuel stavation. This causes a lot of smoke the first start and can
lead to longer crank times, but I'm not going to argue with 42 years of
success doing it.

----- Original Message -----
From: "jd" <jdood@...>
To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's"
Sent: Monday, June 15, 2009 4:01 PM
Subject: [OMC-Boats] 1ST RUN CHECKLIST

> i don' have one, but would like one. I am mere days from
> launching and turning my key for the first time to see what happens.
> but totally nervous about it. so being that these are old boats,
> it would be nice to know what other people do before turning the key for
> the first time at the beginning of the season. a sort of check list
> in order of events. tap the fuel filter glass first? prime the carb
> with fuel first? change the plugs? I've had my boat out so few times,
> don't have much of a clue on the official OMC starting procedure, and
> often have started it after a mechanic or someone has already been
> messing with it a few days earlier. Had heard somewhere about
> pumping the shift lever forward a few times to prime the engine. But
> that could be totally wrong. So anyone want to take a stab at making
> a little checklist? I'll get it started with an easy one....
> 1) take boat to ramp
> _______________________________________________
> OMC-Boats mailing list
> OMC-Boats@...
Received on Monday, 15 June 2009

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