From: jd <jdood@...>
Date: Mon, 15 Jun 2009 22:43:32 -0700

On Jun 15, 2009, at 2:06 PM, Andy Perakes wrote:

> The hopefully obvious 1st step before attempting a start is to
> inspect the engine compartment for any sight or smell of fuel.
> After you've done that, run the blower for several minutes. I
> usually leave the engine hatch open until it is idling nicely as an
> added precaution. My Reveler has a lower engine access hatch that I
> usually remove too. You can do this in the water, but I usually
> make the first start on the trailer with the stern drive in a
> garbage can filled with water.

i've thought about the garbage can idea - does it actually work? i
have no hose possibilities at my shop.
> As you probably know, the greatest challenge starting any carburated
> vehicle that has been sitting a long time is to get the fuel
> flowing. First I do a steady crank of about 5-6 seconds with the
> choke pulled up and the drive in neutral. I still have the glass
> bowl on my fuel pump so after cranking, I check to be sure it has
> filled and then I can guage if the bowl on the carb has started
> filling too. After that and without cranking the engine, I remove
> the flame arrestor and start pumping the throttle (note you can do
> this at the engine via the quick-release cable fitting which will
> release the entire throttle cable without affecting its adjustment
> near the carb). Assuming you have the same Rochester carb, you'll
> eventually see the fuel spraying from the 2 priming jets. Once I
> see the fuel spraying in, I probably pump another 5-10 times, then
> put the cable back in place and reinstall the flame arrestor. Then
> I start cranking again and will usually get a turnover/start within
> another 5-10 seconds of cranking.

> After it starts, I back off on the choke until I have a slightly
> fast idle (about 800-900 rpm on the tach) and I let it run until
> mildly warm (constantly checking the water flow).

how do you check the water flow? lee mentioned starboard pivot
point. but i've heard there is not tattle tell on these. mine
leak like crazy (on the list to fix, have attempted twice and leaks
return) so it's hard to discern if there's supposed to be a tattle
tell somewhere in the sprinklering.

> From there I'm ready to hit the launch ramp. Sometimes it can take
> 30-40 seconds of cranking, but if you know you have fuel spritzing
> at the jets when you pump the throttle, it will eventually start
> (assuming nothing else is wrong). Its probably worth adding that I
> still follow the owner's manual winterization procedure which
> consists of dumping ~1 pint of 30W engine oil down the carb and
> stalling it out just before fuel stavation. This causes a lot of
> smoke the first start and can lead to longer crank times, but I'm
> not going to argue with 42 years of success doing it.

> ----- Original Message ----- From: "jd" <jdood@...>
> To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's" <omc-boats@...
> >
> Sent: Monday, June 15, 2009 4:01 PM
> Subject: [OMC-Boats] 1ST RUN CHECKLIST
>> i don' have one, but would like one. I am mere
>> days from launching and turning my key for the first time to see
>> what happens. but totally nervous about it. so being that
>> these are old boats, it would be nice to know what other people do
>> before turning the key for the first time at the beginning of the
>> season. a sort of check list in order of events. tap the
>> fuel filter glass first? prime the carb with fuel first?
>> change the plugs? I've had my boat out so few times, don't have
>> much of a clue on the official OMC starting procedure, and often
>> have started it after a mechanic or someone has already been
>> messing with it a few days earlier. Had heard somewhere about
>> pumping the shift lever forward a few times to prime the engine.
>> But that could be totally wrong. So anyone want to take a
>> stab at making a little checklist? I'll get it started with an
>> easy one....
>> 1) take boat to ramp
>> _______________________________________________
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Received on Tuesday, 16 June 2009

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