Re: [OMC-Boats] OMC FACTORY SHIFTER DIAGNOSTICS

From: Scott Veazie <scottveazie@...>
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 2009 09:07:59 -0700

Lee is right....the toggle switch idea is very risky...I was just saying I've seen it, I don't really recommend it. Reading about the failure rate of the single level control makes me want to stay with my Evinrude pushbutton controls. I wonder if you could even use the pushbuttons that were used for the outboards? The control boxes are almost the same, the only real difference being that the outboard box has an ignition switch too....you could just not use that part if you decided to go that route. I do see them from time to time on ebay.....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/johnson-evinrude-outboard-controls-Hydro-electric_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem2a00a6e35dQQitemZ180399563613QQptZBoatQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesQ5fGear

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Evinrude-Outboard-Electric-Shift-Marine-Remote-Controls_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem2a009a6914QQitemZ180398745876QQptZBoatQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesQ5fGear

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EVINRUDE-ELECTRIC-CONTROL-UNIT-EXCELLENT-CONDITION_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem4a9a216967QQitemZ320413460839QQptZBoatQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesQ5fGear

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Johnson-Evinrude-Hydro-Electric-Outboard-Control-Cable_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem2ea74173f0QQitemZ200374580208QQptZBoatQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesQ5fGear

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EVINRUDE-OUTBOARD-HYDRO-ELECTRIC-SHIFT-REMOTE-CONTROL_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem4399ade0c1QQitemZ290341118145QQptZBoatQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesQ5fGear

From: lks@...
To: omc-boats@...
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 2009 09:40:45 -0600
Subject: [OMC-Boats] OMC FACTORY SHIFTER DIAGNOSTICS

The following is lifted directly from the 1969 OMC/JOHNSON/EVINRUDE STERNDRIVE SERVICE MANUAL:
===========================SHIFTING DEFECTIVE CHECK:
(NOTE: Ignition Key Swicth ON to check electric shift)
MOVE Shift lever to forward. Propeller should turn by hand forward (clockwise). But when turned in opposite direction (counter-clockwise), it should engage clutch after partial revolution.MOVE Shift Lever to reverse. Observe opposite behavior.
        If propellor turns freely in both directions when in forward or reverse, then clutch is not engaging. Watch ammeter very closely when shifting. If needle shows slight (-) negative discharge, you can assume problem is mechanical. This will necessitate disassembly of gearcase.
NOTES:
When Shifting check ammeter. If draw is considerably more than the 2.5 amps the electro-magnetic shift should draw, this would indicate a short in the wiring. Disconnect knife-edge connectors at intermediate housing and check again. If current draw is still excessive, this would indicate a short in the control box or wiring rather than the drive unit.
If gearcase will not come out of either forward or reverse, even when shifting lever is moved: Check control box. In assembly, toggle switch arm may not have been inserted into slot in throttle lever. This results in bending the switch arm and permanently leaving switch in either forward or reverse.
If engine stops abruptly when shifting, explore the possibility that both shift wires have a bare spot and could possibly short to each other. This would allow gearcase to be engage in both foreword and reverse at the same time which could result in broken drive shaft.
===========================
Jeff and others reading this list: Please review the factory diagram I've posted here:http://hhscott.com/evinrude/images/wiring/68_v6_ALL_WIRE.jpg
Sorry for the "preachy" attitude here, but personally, I would NOT recommend "jerry-rigging" ANY type of alternative electric shift controls or "make-shift" alternative toggle switches for the purpose of operating the electric shift coils. It's UNSAFE and you risk destroying your engine and drive. Just not worth it for an extra weekend or three at the end of the season. Take the time and do it right. If you don't want to spend the big bucks on a third-party switch for your single-lever Johnson/OMC control, then I would recommend a used Evinrude push-button remote control. I've never head of a switch failure in those units. (The sliding mechanical window or aperture can slip out of adjustment - but any resourceful Captain with Phillips driver can fix that - just ask BC (see his page/photos on the OMC boat web)
BTW, Jeff from your "difficult-for-me-to-decipher" troubleshooting description, I think you have a possibly, of having incorrectly installed the switch (mechanically) in the remote control housing (see "red" above).
Lee

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Received on Sunday, 23 August 2009

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