From: Lee Shuster <lks@...>
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 2009 10:48:53 -0600

The 1962 - 1968 Evinrude or Johnson (non hydro-electric) shift boxes
are identical to the sterndrive units. Any of the Triumph-series three-
cyl outboard introduced in 1968 are hydro's and the outboard V-4's
beginning in 1969 are hydro's.

  The hydro-electric controls, I believe (came after my time) use
different electrical logic and therefore may not be direct subs.

The may be good source of common parts, however.

Just be careful when shopping, 3-wire, 5-wire or Hydro-electric will
all be different, depending on what's in you OMC boat.


On Aug 23, 2009, at 10:07 AM, Scott Veazie wrote:

> Lee is right....the toggle switch idea is very risky...I was just
> saying I've seen it, I don't really recommend it. Reading about the
> failure rate of the single level control makes me want to stay with
> my Evinrude pushbutton controls. I wonder if you could even use the
> pushbuttons that were used for the outboards? The control boxes are
> almost the same, the only real difference being that the outboard
> box has an ignition switch could just not use that part
> if you decided to go that route. I do see them from time to time on
> ebay.....
> From: lks@...
> To: omc-boats@...
> Date: Sun, 23 Aug 2009 09:40:45 -0600
> The following is lifted directly from the 1969 OMC/JOHNSON/EVINRUDE
> ===========================
> (NOTE: Ignition Key Swicth ON to check electric shift)
> MOVE Shift lever to forward. Propeller should turn by hand forward
> (clockwise). But when turned in opposite direction (counter-
> clockwise), it should engage clutch after partial revolution.
> MOVE Shift Lever to reverse. Observe opposite behavior.
> If propellor turns freely in both directions when in forward or
> reverse, then clutch is not engaging. Watch ammeter very closely
> when shifting. If needle shows slight (-) negative discharge, you
> can assume problem is mechanical.
> This will necessitate disassembly of gearcase.
> When Shifting check ammeter. If draw is considerably more than the
> 2.5 amps the electro-magnetic shift should draw, this would indicate
> a short in the wiring. Disconnect knife-edge connectors at
> intermediate housing and check again. If current draw is still
> excessive, this would indicate a short in the control box or wiring
> rather than the drive unit.
> If gearcase will not come out of either forward or reverse, even
> when shifting lever is moved: Check control box. In assembly, toggle
> switch arm may not have been inserted into slot in throttle lever.
> This results in bending the switch arm and permanently leaving
> switch in either forward or reverse.
> If engine stops abruptly when shifting, explore the possibility that
> both shift wires have a bare spot and could possibly short to each
> other. This would allow gearcase to be engage in both foreword and
> reverse at the same time which could result in broken drive shaft.
> ===========================
> Jeff and others reading this list: Please review the factory
> diagram I've posted here:
> Sorry for the "preachy" attitude here, but personally, I would NOT
> recommend "jerry-rigging" ANY type of alternative electric shift
> controls or "make-shift" alternative toggle switches for the purpose
> of operating the electric shift coils. It's UNSAFE and you risk
> destroying your engine and drive. Just not worth it for an extra
> weekend or three at the end of the season. Take the time and do it
> right. If you don't want to spend the big bucks on a third-party
> switch for your single-lever Johnson/OMC control, then I would
> recommend a used Evinrude push-button remote control. I've never
> head of a switch failure in those units. (The sliding mechanical
> window or aperture can slip out of adjustment - but any resourceful
> Captain with Phillips driver can fix that - just ask BC (see his
> page/photos on the OMC boat web)
> BTW, Jeff from your "difficult-for-me-to-decipher" troubleshooting
> description, I think you have a possibly, of having incorrectly
> installed the switch (mechanically) in the remote control housing
> (see "red" above).
> Lee
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Received on Sunday, 23 August 2009

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