From: Lee Shuster <lks@...>
Date: Sun, 23 Aug 2009 09:40:45 -0600

The following is lifted directly from the 1969 OMC/JOHNSON/EVINRUDE


(NOTE: Ignition Key Swicth ON to check electric shift)

MOVE Shift lever to forward. Propeller should turn by hand forward
(clockwise). But when turned in opposite direction (counter-
clockwise), it should engage clutch after partial revolution.
MOVE Shift Lever to reverse. Observe opposite behavior.

        If propellor turns freely in both directions when in forward or
reverse, then clutch is not engaging. Watch ammeter very closely when
shifting. If needle shows slight (-) negative discharge, you can
assume problem is mechanical.
        This will necessitate disassembly of gearcase.


When Shifting check ammeter. If draw is considerably more than the 2.5
amps the electro-magnetic shift should draw, this would indicate a
short in the wiring. Disconnect knife-edge connectors at intermediate
housing and check again. If current draw is still excessive, this
would indicate a short in the control box or wiring rather than the
drive unit.

If gearcase will not come out of either forward or reverse, even when
shifting lever is moved: Check control box. In assembly, toggle switch
arm may not have been inserted into slot in throttle lever. This
results in bending the switch arm and permanently leaving switch in
either forward or reverse.

If engine stops abruptly when shifting, explore the possibility that
both shift wires have a bare spot and could possibly short to each
other. This would allow gearcase to be engage in both foreword and
reverse at the same time which could result in broken drive shaft.


Jeff and others reading this list: Please review the factory diagram
I've posted here:

Sorry for the "preachy" attitude here, but personally, I would NOT
recommend "jerry-rigging" ANY type of alternative electric shift
controls or "make-shift" alternative toggle switches for the purpose
of operating the electric shift coils. It's UNSAFE and you risk
destroying your engine and drive. Just not worth it for an extra
weekend or three at the end of the season. Take the time and do it
right. If you don't want to spend the big bucks on a third-party
switch for your single-lever Johnson/OMC control, then I would
recommend a used Evinrude push-button remote control. I've never head
of a switch failure in those units. (The sliding mechanical window or
aperture can slip out of adjustment - but any resourceful Captain
with Phillips driver can fix that - just ask BC (see his page/photos
on the OMC boat web)

BTW, Jeff from your "difficult-for-me-to-decipher" troubleshooting
description, I think you have a possibly, of having incorrectly
installed the switch (mechanically) in the remote control housing (see
"red" above).

Received on Sunday, 23 August 2009

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