Re: [OMC-Boats] OMC/Johnson and Evinrude Shifter switches

From: Lee K. Shuster \(lks\) <LKS@...>
Date: Fri, 14 Aug 2009 15:33:43 -0600

New Replacement Switch for "only" $195.79

Maybe Phil could add this link to the website?

----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee Shuster (lib1)" <lib1@...>
To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's"
Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 8:07 AM
Subject: [OMC-Boats] OMC/Johnson and Evinrude Shifter switches

> Jeff D,
> Yes the black knob is a throttle friction adjustment.
> But the switch you mention is worth alerting all OMC electric shift
> owners about:
> There are four different switches used on OMC boats. The dividing line
> was 1969. Two for E-rudes, two for Johnson/OMC's.
> Both Evinrude (push-button) and Johnson/OMC (single lever) and third
> party (like Morse) introduced the 5-wire Neutral-only starter interlock
> circuit, for 1969, most likely as a result of liability concerns, but I
> don't know for sure. (If you remember, a lot of federal safety
> legislation was mandated in 1968 on the automotive industry, as a result
> of Ralph Nader's book, "Unsafe at Any Speed."
> Prior to 1969 all remote control shift swicthes used only 3-wires and did
> not have the safety interlock. E-rude pushbuttons all have a mechanical
> sliding "aperature" that prevents operating the shifter buttons beyond a
> partial throttle setting.
> If this ever slips out of place, and prevents you from shifting (being
> stuck in neutral, at your favorite fishing hole, 5 miles off shore is not
> FUN!) simply carry your hand Phillips-head and pop off the cover surround
> the push buttons. This will allow you do move the slider back into place
> and allow you to now engage forward or reverse.
> In my opinion, the Evinrude design, while perhaps less ergonomic (it
> takes two hands to simultaneously move the throttle and shift, as in
> docking) is a more robust design, and the switch assembly rarely fails.
> Johnson owners aren't as lucky.
> The Johnson/OMC switches are a weak point and often fail. In fact, I've
> come across a couple of sources for present-day, aftermarket sources. A
> gentleman, in Portland, OR is rebuilding these switches and a Canadian
> source has claimed it has ramped up production of new switches. (I have
> no direct experience with either and I'll leave it to others on this list
> to track them down and have Phil add it to his website.)
> Bottomline is these switches are like gold. In either style, 5 or 3- wire
> they are extremely hard to come by. Supply and demand dictates market
> prices. Anyone who owns a Johnson should start looking for a spare today!
> You should locate the current third-party sources. Just buying a used
> control off eBay, won't insure you are getting a useable switch. About
> half of them are defective, or will soon fail.
> I've also got a little tip for 69-70 Johnson 5-wire owners. I find that
> once in awhile my 5-wire, will only "reset" properly if I "back" the
> throttle into REVERSE after shutting down the engine in NEUTRAL. I call
> this my built-in, anti-theft device, like having to know the secret
> key-code combination. Only problem with this little quirk, is you don't
> want a big barge bearing down on you when your forget the code!
> Lee
> On Aug 13, 2009, at 11:05 PM, jd wrote:
>> hi, so for whoever is keeping track, got my boat out today for first
>> time after weeks. temp prob was previous dilema, rewired about 75% as
>> result. Ran around about about full speed for about 20 mins and temp
>> stayed right at 160!! So yes, as I HOPED, knock on wood, but
>> it appears the crazy high temp readings on 3 separate gauges and senders
>> I have been getting for 3 summers now were ultimately the result of some
>> funky wiring grounding thing. Wow what a relief!
>> But of course, another prob popped up (although everything seems
>> downhill minor from here on). Sometimes the key would crank and
>> sometimes absolutely nothing. Tracked it down to the shifter. Pulled
>> it apart, poked around, traced it to a prob with the Pollak switch
>> that controls forward or reverse. It was sticking, and not sending
>> juice to the white wire while in neutral. Actually went further and
>> did some surgery on the switch - drilled out the rivets, carefully took
>> it apart. All plastic, and a crucial plastic piece in there is
>> broken in half. Have it in the vice tonight and am hoping I can glue it
>> back together strong enough to hold. Not fun. Fortunately, Have
>> an older shifter as back up just in case, but it doesn't have the
>> ":won't start in F/R" wires.
>> Anyway, on to my question - what exactly does the adjustment screw
>> right above the red throttle lever do? it doesn't look broken to me,
>> but seems to be doing nothing. Is it a friction adjustment for the
>> lever?
>> jeff d
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Received on Friday, 14 August 2009

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