Re: [OMC-Boats] 1ST RUN CHECKLIST

Yes, Lee, the "little red sliding lever" is exactly what I'm referring to.
I figured for a 1st run checklist it was easier to just refer to it as a
choke, but you are absolutely correct that it does not function as a true
choke. Thanks for clarifying that to all who might appreciate more than my
short-cut terminology!

On backing down the ramp, its good to be cautions about fully dropping the
drive unless you are absolutely sure of conditions at the launch ramp. I
launch in a very shallow creek with a poorly maintained, busted-up concrete
ramp. For me to back in with the unit down would generally mean packing the
drive deep into mud or busting the prop or drive on a concrete block
inconveniently relocated by some bored teen. These props and drives are at
such a premium that I've been to known to paddle the entire 1/2-mile out to
the lake if conditions are bad enough. Even if I think it's deep enough to
run (with the unit just barely in the water), I still drag a paddle over the
side to feel for depth, logs, rocks, etc. Likewise, I always raise the unit
before pulling out, though I drop it again to drain after I'm clear of the
ramp (then raise it again ~1/2-way to travel). I also raise my speed-o tube
for the same reasons. The funny part is when I warn "newbies" about
conditions in the creek and they think their fancy jet drives are immune;
eventually I'm sure to see them deep in the muck trying to pull the crud out
of their plugged impellors.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Lee Shuster" <lee.k.shuster@...>
To: "'Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's'"
<omc-boats@...>
Sent: Monday, June 15, 2009 6:30 PM
Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] 1ST RUN CHECKLIST

> Andy,
>
> That's a great description of your time proven procedure. Thank you for
> pointing out the importance of proper ventilation and visual checks.
>
> I would like to point out some terminology that may be confusing new
> owners and/or Evinrude-Johnson differences.
>
> First, the Johnson-OMC single-lever remote control throttle-shifter has a
> little red sliding lever which is used increase the idle speed for cold
> starting. I believe this is what you are referring to as the "choke." It
> doesn't actually choke or enrich the fuel the way a choke does. The V-4's
> use a solenoid activated choke controlled from a dash-mounted switch,
> while all the 4-stroke GM engines have either divorced (V8's) or integral
> (automatic) chokes.
>
> The Evinrude push-button remote controls, do not have a separate "START"
> idle adjustment level. Instead Evinrude (push-button) controls rely on
> labeling the side of the unit with a position indicator for moving the
> main throttle level to a "START" position.
>
> And you are correct, as he original OMC Boat owners manuals do describe
> pumping the throttle to assist in cold starting, much like you would an
> auto of that era. That manual throttle pumping of course assumes that fuel
> has reached the carb float bowls.
>
> At the beginning of a season, I always pre-start the engine at home
> running on the hose adapter, before I get anywhere near the lake. As a
> precaution I always turn the fuel petcock OFF, when I'm not in the boat.
> When I arrive at the lake, and I'm in the launch line here's my procedure:
>
> 1) Disconnect trailer lights from vehicle
> 2) Remove storage cover
> 3) Remove rear tie-downs and install drain plug
> 4) Loosen bow-eye winch strap and remove bow-eye safety chain.
> 5) Fold-back windshield and secure (Sportsman)
> 6) Lift Motor Hatch and visually inspect for leaks or anything out of the
> ordinary
> 7) Insure Battery terminals are tight
> 8) Turn Fuel Petcock ON
> 9) Check Engine Oil Level
> 10) Turn ON Main Electrical "DISCONNECT" Switch
> 11) Run Blower and confirm no fumes present
> 12) Check Fuel gauge
> 13) Turn Ignition key to ON
> 14) Move Shifter into Forward and Reverse and Confirm Ammeter movement
> 15) Turn over Starter Motor for no longer than 15 seconds, in neutral
> 16) Pump throttle for 10-15 seconds
> 17) Repeat steps 15 and 16 until first signs of firing. NEVER allow motor
> to actually start out of water.
> 18) Back boat down ramp and into water
> 19) While still firmly on trailer, lower sterndrive gently, four or five
> little pulses does the trick
> 20) Run blower and double check under engine hatch (You might have
> forgotten Step 3!)
> 21) Set red START LEVER to REAR POSITION (Only on Johnson-OMC Single
> lever)
> 22) Pump Throttle two or three times
> 23) Motor should start right up -- confirm idle speed is high (1500
> RPM)(If you forgot step 19, shutdown and do it now!)
> 24) Before backing off trailer, confirm sterndrive Tattle-tell is working
> (located on Starboard pivot point)
> 25) Continue warming up for at least 2-3 minutes
> 26) Decrease idle speed below 1000 RPM
> 27) Launch boat off trailer using little or no thrust from prop
> 28) In colder weather (45 to 60F) it takes my boat about 15-20 min of
> idling to reach 140 F (normal operating temp).
> 29) Let engine idle at dock, while waiting for passengers. Recheck blower,
> cooling, and ammeter.
> 30) Lower start lever Idle before engaging gear. "Taxi" well beyond the
> "No Wake" buoys and apply throttle very gradually. I usually don't even
> try to plane the boat (traffic and condition permitting) until I see temps
> approach NORMAL (135 - 140 F).
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: omc-boats-bounces@...
> [mailto:omc-boats-bounces@...] On Behalf Of Andy Perakes
> Sent: Monday, June 15, 2009 3:06 PM
> To: Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] 1ST RUN CHECKLIST
>
> The hopefully obvious 1st step before attempting a start is to inspect the
> engine compartment for any sight or smell of fuel. After you've done
> that, run the blower for several minutes. I usually leave the engine
> hatch open until it is idling nicely as an added precaution. My Reveler
> has a lower engine access hatch that I usually remove too. You can do
> this in the water, but I usually make the first start on the trailer with
> the stern drive in a garbage can filled with water.
>
> As you probably know, the greatest challenge starting any carburated
> vehicle that has been sitting a long time is to get the fuel flowing.
> First I do a steady crank of about 5-6 seconds with the choke pulled up
> and the drive in neutral. I still have the glass bowl on my fuel pump so
> after cranking, I check to be sure it has filled and then I can guage if
> the bowl on the carb has started filling too. After that and without
> cranking the engine, I remove the flame arrestor and start pumping the
> throttle (note you can do this at the engine via the quick-release cable
> fitting which will release the entire throttle cable without affecting its
> adjustment near the carb).
> Assuming you have the same Rochester carb, you'll eventually see the fuel
> spraying from the 2 priming jets. Once I see the fuel spraying in, I
> probably pump another 5-10 times, then put the cable back in place and
> reinstall the flame arrestor. Then I start cranking again and will
> usually get a turnover/start within another 5-10 seconds of cranking.
> After it starts, I back off on the choke until I have a slightly fast idle
> (about 800-900 rpm on the tach) and I let it run until mildly warm
> (constantly checking the water flow). From there I'm ready to hit the
> launch ramp.
> Sometimes it can take 30-40 seconds of cranking, but if you know you have
> fuel spritzing at the jets when you pump the throttle, it will eventually
> start (assuming nothing else is wrong). Its probably worth adding that I
> still follow the owner's manual winterization procedure which consists of
> dumping ~1 pint of 30W engine oil down the carb and stalling it out just
> before fuel stavation. This causes a lot of smoke the first start and can
> lead to longer crank times, but I'm not going to argue with 42 years of
> success doing it.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "jd" <jdood@...>
> To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's"
> <omc-boats@...>
> Sent: Monday, June 15, 2009 4:01 PM
> Subject: [OMC-Boats] 1ST RUN CHECKLIST
>
>
>> .......no i don' have one, but would like one. I am mere days
>> from
>> launching and turning my key for the first time to see what happens.
>> but totally nervous about it. so being that these are old boats,
>> it would be nice to know what other people do before turning the key for
>> the first time at the beginning of the season. a sort of check list
>> in order of events. tap the fuel filter glass first? prime the carb
>> with fuel first? change the plugs? I've had my boat out so few times,
>> don't have much of a clue on the official OMC starting procedure, and
>> often have started it after a mechanic or someone has already been
>> messing with it a few days earlier. Had heard somewhere about
>> pumping the shift lever forward a few times to prime the engine. But
>> that could be totally wrong. So anyone want to take a stab at
>> making
>> a little checklist? I'll get it started with an easy one....
>>
>> 1) take boat to ramp
>>
>>
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>
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Received on Monday, 15 June 2009