Re: [OMC-Boats] Transom Repair/Replacement

From: Ian Torrey <itorrey@...>
Date: Tue, 19 Jun 2007 11:27:20 -0400

Thanks Tom. Are you doing your floor and foam too?

-----Original Message-----
From: omc-boats-bounces@...
[mailto:omc-boats-bounces@...] On Behalf Of
tpaquette@...
Sent: June 18, 2007 11:42 AM
To: Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's
Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Transom Repair/Replacement

For the out board it is not too difficult.

I can send you instructions on how I disassembled and my plan for
reassembly.

Try later tonite if I have time

Tom
>
> From: Ian Torrey (QNX) <itorrey@...>
> Date: 2007/06/14 Thu AM 09:36:38 EDT
> To: omc-boats@...
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Transom Repair/Replacement
>
> Thanks for your responses, Lee and Tom. I removed the outboard motor
> last night, and found things were not very pretty back there. A good
> portion of the transom is really spongy - bad enough that I don't
> think it's worth even trying to make any short term repairs. I think
> the only way I'll feel safe putting this one in the water is with the
> full transom replacement (and probably floor and foam too).
>
> Tom, do you have a plan for how you are approaching your full
> replacement? Looks like the outboards might be a bit harder to work on
> from the inside than in Lee's stern drive photos. Lee, in your photos,
> there only seems to be one layer of 'glass. Have you already cut out
> an inside layer before adding the 3/4" plywood, or is that all the
> transom the stringer drives required? My transom appears to be about
> three 1/2" sheets of plywood sandwiched between inner and outer
> fiberglass panels, with a 2x6" horizontal brace running the full width
> across the back on the inside, and a smaller brace right above the
> bilge well.
>
> Also, any thoughts on products like Seacast pourable transom repair?
>
> Thanks,
> Ian
>
>
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