Re: [omc-boats] Re: boat stuck

From: David <odin@...>
Date: Fri, 09 Dec 2005 09:43:15 -0600

Those are the solenoids - up and down switches run the solenoids - you
will see two wires on the port side coming from the solenoids and going
down to the transom through the intermediate housing - there you will
see black rubber tubes over the connections - pull them back and
disconnect the wires there - Dave

Ryan wrote:

> Are these the coils? I guess the wires on mine arn't original?
> http://home.ec.rr.com/mar00isa/index.html/engine%20left%20back.jpg
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ethan Brodsky"
> <brodskye@...>
> To: <omc-boats@...>
> Sent: Thursday, December 08, 2005 1:38 PM
> Subject: Re: [omc-boats] Re: boat stuck
>
>
>> On Thu, 8 Dec 2005, mark wrote:
>>
>>> if the electorshift wires are disconnected-does it fall out of
>>> gear-nevermind i remember reading it defaults to forward gear under
>>> fail so you can still get 'home'
>>> -if i allpy juice to those wires will it kick it out of gear? hotwire
>>> it. is the unit the ground? or is there dedicated ground wire?
>>> thanks for teh excellent advice and troubleshooting.
>>
>>
>> I believe it will fail into neutral, not forward. The coils require
>> continuous 12V power to stay in gear. You can check if the coils are
>> good
>> by putting an ohmmeter between the green wire and ground and the blue
>> wire
>> and ground. One is forward and the other is reverse, but I don't
>> remember
>> for sure which is which. I seem to recall that green is forward ("green
>> means go" and blue is reverse "blue means backup"), but no guarantees
>> there.
>>
>> The coils are grounded through the outdrive case - make sure you measure
>> off a clean point like a screw head and not a painted or corroded
>> aluminum
>> surface.
>>
>> I believe the resistance should be in the 2-5 ohm range, but I can
>> double-check tonight in the manuals. "2.3-2.6 ohm" rings a bell for
>> some
>> reason, but I don't remember for sure.
>>
>> If the coils are bad I'm guessing you'll see an open circuit. If the
>> wire
>> is bad you may see either an open circuit or a short. Also check
>> resistance between the two - it should read twice that of the individual
>> ones. If it does not they may be shorted together.
>>
>> The shift wires can be disconnected in the engine bay - there's some
>> spade-like clips in there that go between the boat wiring harness and
>> the
>> outdrive wiring harness. The connections are probably be covered by
>> small
>> boots made of gummy rubber. Look for some blue and green wires go to a
>> cable that passes through the top port side of the intermediate housing.
>>
>> The forward/reverse coil power is wired directly to the push-buttons
>> in the
>> remote control (throttle handle unit) - there are no relays in the
>> circuit.
>> While you have the engine-bay connection apart, check that you're
>> getting
>> power there. Turn the key to run, pull the throttle back to idle,
>> push the
>> forward button, and see if one of the wires is hot. Then try reverse
>> and
>> the other.
>>
>> One more important thing to check is ground continuity. Check
>> resistance
>> between the outdrive and engine block or negative battery terminal. It
>> should be very low (0.1 ohms or so). There's a stainless steel wire
>> that
>> goes from the outdrive to the intermediate housing. I can't remember
>> where
>> it connects on the outdrive, but if everything else checks out I'd take
>> each end off, scrape underneath them a bit, then reinstall with
>> conductive
>> grease.
>>
>> The manuals I have caution about applying power to the shift coils
>> out of
>> the water. They say the coils are cooled by water and will overheat
>> if you
>> leave them energized for long periods while dry. Just based on the
>> amount
>> of metal between them and the water, I've been assuming it's ok to keep
>> them energized for several minutes.
>>
>> One more caution is that it is supposedly very easy to damage the shift
>> springs when shifting into gear at higher RPM. A mechanic told me I
>> should
>> keep the idle as low as possible - 600-700 rpm is ideal - since
>> shifting at
>> higher RPM (even 900-1100, a typical "fast idle") can break the springs.
>>
>> Ethan
>> -
>> ---
>> Ethan Brodsky
>> UW FutureCar Team Paradigm: Two-Year FutureCar Challenge Winner
>> UW-Madison Clean Snowmobile Team: Winner of the 2004 SAE CSC
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Received on Friday, 9 December 2005

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