Re: [omc-boats] Re: boat stuck

From: Ryan <kmoore12@...>
Date: Fri, 9 Dec 2005 08:48:02 -0500

Are these the coils? I guess the wires on mine arn't original?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ethan Brodsky" <brodskye@...>
To: <omc-boats@...>
Sent: Thursday, December 08, 2005 1:38 PM
Subject: Re: [omc-boats] Re: boat stuck

> On Thu, 8 Dec 2005, mark wrote:
>> if the electorshift wires are disconnected-does it fall out of
>> gear-nevermind i remember reading it defaults to forward gear under
>> fail so you can still get 'home'
>> -if i allpy juice to those wires will it kick it out of gear? hotwire
>> it. is the unit the ground? or is there dedicated ground wire?
>> thanks for teh excellent advice and troubleshooting.
> I believe it will fail into neutral, not forward. The coils require
> continuous 12V power to stay in gear. You can check if the coils are good
> by putting an ohmmeter between the green wire and ground and the blue wire
> and ground. One is forward and the other is reverse, but I don't remember
> for sure which is which. I seem to recall that green is forward ("green
> means go" and blue is reverse "blue means backup"), but no guarantees
> there.
> The coils are grounded through the outdrive case - make sure you measure
> off a clean point like a screw head and not a painted or corroded aluminum
> surface.
> I believe the resistance should be in the 2-5 ohm range, but I can
> double-check tonight in the manuals. "2.3-2.6 ohm" rings a bell for some
> reason, but I don't remember for sure.
> If the coils are bad I'm guessing you'll see an open circuit. If the wire
> is bad you may see either an open circuit or a short. Also check
> resistance between the two - it should read twice that of the individual
> ones. If it does not they may be shorted together.
> The shift wires can be disconnected in the engine bay - there's some
> spade-like clips in there that go between the boat wiring harness and the
> outdrive wiring harness. The connections are probably be covered by small
> boots made of gummy rubber. Look for some blue and green wires go to a
> cable that passes through the top port side of the intermediate housing.
> The forward/reverse coil power is wired directly to the push-buttons in
> the
> remote control (throttle handle unit) - there are no relays in the
> circuit.
> While you have the engine-bay connection apart, check that you're getting
> power there. Turn the key to run, pull the throttle back to idle, push
> the
> forward button, and see if one of the wires is hot. Then try reverse and
> the other.
> One more important thing to check is ground continuity. Check resistance
> between the outdrive and engine block or negative battery terminal. It
> should be very low (0.1 ohms or so). There's a stainless steel wire that
> goes from the outdrive to the intermediate housing. I can't remember
> where
> it connects on the outdrive, but if everything else checks out I'd take
> each end off, scrape underneath them a bit, then reinstall with conductive
> grease.
> The manuals I have caution about applying power to the shift coils out of
> the water. They say the coils are cooled by water and will overheat if
> you
> leave them energized for long periods while dry. Just based on the amount
> of metal between them and the water, I've been assuming it's ok to keep
> them energized for several minutes.
> One more caution is that it is supposedly very easy to damage the shift
> springs when shifting into gear at higher RPM. A mechanic told me I
> should
> keep the idle as low as possible - 600-700 rpm is ideal - since shifting
> at
> higher RPM (even 900-1100, a typical "fast idle") can break the springs.
> Ethan
> -
> ---
> Ethan Brodsky
> UW FutureCar Team Paradigm: Two-Year FutureCar Challenge Winner
> UW-Madison Clean Snowmobile Team: Winner of the 2004 SAE CSC
> -----
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Received on Friday, 9 December 2005

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