I installed my drain hose about 2 years ago and absolutely love it. My only regret is that I didn't do it years ago. As Ethan said, oil changes are now a null issue. The single best upgrade I've done by far.
----- Original Message -----
From: BLDFW
To: Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's
Sent: Monday, August 10, 2009 7:24 PM
Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Oil change procedures
I like the idea of a permanent valve. Seems to me to be the best way to go. Then all you have to do is to run a hose through the rear drain plug to the valve (assuming the boat is out of the water) and let it drain into a bucket or the like. Will have to look into that for myself.
-Bill
Dallas, TX
1970 Evinrude Explorer - 155 Buick V6 - OMC Sterndrive
http://www.photobucket.com/evinrude_explorer
--- On Mon, 8/10/09, Ethan Brodsky <brodskye@...> wrote:
From: Ethan Brodsky <brodskye@...>
Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Oil change procedures
To: bchowk@...
Cc: omc-boats@...
Date: Monday, August 10, 2009, 5:25 PM
On Mon, 10 Aug 2009, BC Howk wrote:
> I have not tried one of the larger extractors like Lee is talking about. Think I will
> next time though.....What I typically do is line my bilge with a garbage bag (the
> thicker the better) and have a bucket standing by to put the bag in. I usually get
> pretty good results but it can get messy in a hurry if you don't carefully place the
> bag and take caution pulling it out (thus having the bucket immediatly available) My
> typical method requires being a little bit of a contortionist to get under there and
> get everything set remove the plug, etc. etc....That pump is sounding better everytime
> I do it.
I installed an oil drain valve in my OMC V-6 a few years ago and in
retrospect it was a great decision. Oil changes are trivial and not the
slightest bit messy now. Before that I'd done it with bags several times
(making a small mess once and a huge mess the other time) and always
dreaded the oil change process. It's been a busy day for me, so I'm going
to take the liberty of reposting one of my messages on this topic from a
couple years ago:
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 00:26:36 -0600 (CST)
From: Ethan Brodsky <brodskye@...>
Reply-To: Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's
<omc-boats@...>
To: omc-boats@...
Subject: [OMC-Boats] Oil drain valve
On Mon, 10 Dec 2007, Andy Perakes wrote:
> On Fri, 07 Dec 2007, Lee wrote:
> >Glad you had success finding your parts. When you get a chance how about
> >shawing some pics or a sketch of how you implemented your oil drain hose
> >and also your fuel pump overflow hose.
> Hi, Lee. I will be happy to do that! I went up to see the work first
> hand over the w/e, but didn't think to take pictures. The oil drain hose
> he's installing was a kit, I think by a company called Jesco? He said
> its a standard part and he's installed a lot of them over the years. It
> basically replaces the oil pan drain plug the routes out the boat drain
> plug hole like on newer boats. I'll get some pics and confirm the name
> of the kit and the manufacturer when I go back up next weekend to drop
> off more parts.
I put in an oil drain valve a couple years ago and it's a real time saver
over the plastic bag trick or making a mess in the bilge. I'm using a
valve made by a company called Fumoto. It's a brass piece that goes in
place of your oil drain plug. It's got a metal valve handle with a
spring-loaded catch and a hose barb.
When I want to change the oil, I slip a few feet of 3/8 fuel line up
through the bilge drain (with the boat on the trailer) and onto the barb
and secure it with a hose clamp (perhaps not necessary, but I'm paranoid).
Then I flip the lever open and it drains right out - you can drain it
straight into jugs and not even get your drain pan dirty. It does drain a
lot slower though through all that hose... [NOTE: Be sure to drain your oil
warm]
It's survived two seasons of boating [MORE NOW] without leaking and they're
certified by a bunch of manufacturers (and originally installed on many
boats and heavy duty engines), so it seems pretty reliable.
If you've got the 225 in^3 V-6 (155 hp) you need the F101N - 1/2-20
threads. Be sure to get one with the "N" at the end - that means it has
the hose nipple. I bought mine online from a place named Tewco near
Milwaukee (tewco@...) for $22.50 plus a few bucks shipping.
Here's the manufacturer's web site (you can also order them direct):
http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/#N-Type_Valve
Ethan
--
<a href="http://www.engr.wisc.edu/~brodskye/"> Ethan Brodsky </a>
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