Re: [OMC-Boats] OMC-Boats Digest, Vol 15, Issue 5

On my V8 there is a petcock on each side of the block and they close with a
jam fit - no o ring that I can recall. I have seen debris ( rust ) get stuck
in the opening and it will not fully close. Open it and then reclose and see
if that helps. They are pretty simple - they have fine threads in the block
so be careful if you have to remove it. I bought several on ebay a couple
years ago and if you need a replacement they write back. TK
----- Original Message -----
From: <omc-boats-request@...>
To: <omc-boats@...>
Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2008 12:00 PM
Subject: OMC-Boats Digest, Vol 15, Issue 5

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> 1. Re: V6 petcock leaking (lib1@...)
> 2. Fw: Reverse works great, but... (lib1@...)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2008 09:23:14 -0600
> From: <lib1@...>
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] V6 petcock leaking
> To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's"
> <omc-boats@...>
> Message-ID: <013e01c8df7c$37533d80$c301000a@...>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Speaking of Trim Tabs:
>
> Here's an excellent article on West Marine. In some ways, I like the
> simplicity of automatic tabs over the complexity of the hydraulic
> Bennett's that I installed.
> One advantage of manual control is that I always force mine fully down
> when docking, as it causes a litlle extra drag.
>
>
> http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/westadvisor/10001/-1/10001/TrimTabs.htm
>
> Lee
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: aperakes@...
> To: Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's
> Sent: Saturday, July 05, 2008 8:03 PM
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] V6 petcock leaking
>
>
> Spent a fabulous day on Lake Huron in our 1967 Johnson Reveler today. It
> was almost cut short when I discovered water coming in from the block. My
> first thought was "Oh, no! I missed something during winterizing," but it
> turned out to be the petcock for the port side of the block. It wasn't in
> all the way, but once I screwed it in all the way, it continued leaking
> through the valve itself. As a short term fix, I just filled the petcock
> with caulking and let it harden, but I'd like to get a more permanent fix
> in place. Does anyone have experience with these valves -- know how they
> seat to seal? Unfortunately I can't get a good look at it from the side.
> I pulled up the drawings on brp.com and all it shows is a stand pipe,
> threaded fitting, and the petcock. I thought there might be an o-ring
> that fell out when I had the block pulled last fall, but nothing shows in
> the drawings -- does the petcock just bottom out in the fitting? Any
> guidance would be appreciated! Ot!
> her than that, she ran fantastic!
>
> Also, with respect to the trim tabs that bolt onto the stern drive
> itself, I forgot to reinstall mine after having the drive pulled and it
> took noticably longer to plane and was harder to hold on plane at the
> slower speeds the kids were wanting to tube at (it was a bit choppy
> today). I'll definitely be re-installing them before heading out again
> tomorrow. I forget the brand, but it was Dol-fin or something-fin if I
> remember right. I can check if anyone wants to know.
>
> Andy Perakes
>
> 1967 Johnson Reveler
>
>
>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Sun, 6 Jul 2008 09:24:35 -0600
> From: <lib1@...>
> Subject: [OMC-Boats] Fw: Reverse works great, but...
> To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's"
> <omc-boats@...>
> Message-ID: <014e01c8df7c$66badc40$c301000a@...>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
> reply-type=original
>
> Sending again without picture....
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <lib1@...>
> To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's"
> <omc-boats@...>
> Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2008 9:04 AM
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Reverse works great, but...
>
>
>> Hi Micha,
>>
>> Good in-the-field, logical troubleshooting on your part.
>>
>> Here's your next step -- You'll need an ohm-meter that can measure
>> resistance in ohms.
>>
>> The shifting is accomplished with electromagnetic "stationary"coils (one
>> each forward and reverse) as well as clutch springs (again one each
>> forward
>> and reverse). When energized with +12 v dc current the coil/spring
>> combination causes the driven gear to engage in either forward or
>> reverse.
>>
>> Basically four elements have to be present or available for shifting to
>> occur:
>>
>> 1) Complete Positive Circuit path for Forward and Reverse (thru internal
>> down-leg harness LIGHT-BLUE = FORWARD, LIGHT-GREEN = REVERSE)
>>
>> 2) There must also be a COMMON return GROUND PATH BACK THRU the down-leg
>> and
>> thru the intermediate housing. OMC offered a ground-strap kit, but since
>> you
>> have current flow on the reverse circuit this path is NOT likely your
>> problem. But check the resistance bewteen the downleg and the engine
>> anyway.
>> Should be essentially close to zero ohms.
>>
>> 3) Each staionary coil should draw approximately 2.25 Amps at 12 v dc.
>> Using Ohms law this is easy to measure with a static resistance
>> measurement.
>> First locate a decent ground point on the down leg and place on probe of
>> the
>> ohmeter there. The second probe should go to the LIGHT-BLUE or LIGHT
>> GREEN
>> stern drive terminal with the remote control disconnected. Your ohmmeter
>> should read approximately 12.00 / 2.25 = 5.3 ohms, which you can round
>> off
>> to 4 to 8 ohms. (An open circuit would yield very high resistance -- A
>> broken or high resistance connection in the wiring would cause this, as
>> would an open staionary coil.)
>>
>> 4) If all the electrical checks prove OK, then you have a defective
>> clutch
>> spring. These have a tendency to fail (physically break) when shifted
>> from
>> neutral into gear above the recommended idle RPM speed (typically 550 to
>> 650
>> RPM).
>>
>> If I had to guess -- you'll find the problem in either step 1 or 4.
>>
>> I'm writing this from memory, so any one elese feel free to jump in.
>>
>> Oh, here's a decent picture to better understand what's inside the
>> gearcase:
>>
>>
>>
>> Also see:
>> http://hhscott.com/evinrude/omc_stringer.htm
>>
>> Lee Shuster
>>
>> Salt Lake City
>>
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Micah Donahue" <mdonahue@...>
>> To: <omc-boats@...>
>> Sent: Sunday, July 06, 2008 6:27 AM
>> Subject: [OMC-Boats] Reverse works great, but...
>>
>>
>>> ...it's tough to pull a skier in that direction.
>>>
>>> We had our '68 Sportsman 155 in the water yesterday for a sea trial.
>>> Started and ran flawlessly, and shifted fine into reverse to back away
>>> from the dock. But it wouldn't shift into forward gear.
>>>
>>> We ruled out the console push-button switches by reversing the 2 wires
>>> where they connect to the wires that go into the intermediate housing
>>> of the outdrive. Then, as you'd expect, it shifted into reverse by
>>> pushing the *forward* shift button. But from that point, we got
>>> nowhere. We assume the problem is either:
>>> a) a break in the "forward" wire somewhere in the run from engine
>>> compartment to lower unit
>>> b) bad shift solenoid (assuming that's what you'd call the part that
>>> does the shifting)
>>>
>>> Obviously, next step is to dive in w/ the manual and start looking for
>>> wiring problems as the wiring goes from engine compartment to lower
>>> unit. Then check the operation of the solenoid. As we do that, any
>>> suggestions? Any "duhh" solutions we're missing? Thanks in advance.
>>>
>>> -Micah
>>>
>>>
>>> _______________________________________________
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>>
>
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> End of OMC-Boats Digest, Vol 15, Issue 5
> ****************************************
Received on Sunday, 6 July 2008