Re: [OMC-Boats] Transom Repair/Replacement

Thanks for your detailed response, Tom. Definitely sounds like a winter
project... I do remember seeing some of your rebuild photos - just couldn't
recall who had posted them or where they were. Thanks very much - I'll go
look at them. I have also been trying to save all the threads re; refoaming
and floor replacement over the last year or two. Now I just need to go
through the huge pile of great info I've gotten from group members.

Thanks once again, everyone, and welcome aboard Rich. You've found an
extremely helpful community here!

Ian

-----Original Message-----
From: omc-boats-bounces@...
[mailto:omc-boats-bounces@...] On Behalf Of
tpaquette@...
Sent: June 19, 2007 4:47 PM
To: Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's
Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Transom Repair/Replacement

yes,

The flooring is just 1/4 inch ply sitting directly on the foam. There are
three pieces/2 seams.
One is between the bench seat and the rear seat. the other is about 4 - 6
inches from the front seats. there is a small strip under the seams they
stapled to hold it together. all is the same material.

The floor sits directly on the foam. and it IS waterlogged trust me. I
thought mine was ok then someone suggested i cut a core piece from the
center. Man there was a very lake in there..... :-)

So with a crow bar, a keyhole hand saw for sheet rock and about a six pack
over a couople days I dug it all out.

I did NOT remove my front seats.

As an FYI before i removed the rearseat section I ran a Pipeclamp with
clamps on both ends across the hull just in fron of the seat section to hold
the form in general shape. Not sure if i needed to but what the heck....I
know it is close the hwere it belongs as i begin to reasemble.

As far as rebuilding there has been alot of talk from folks who have
accomplished it.

Here is my Plan A and Plan B.

Find out how much some guy with a foam gun and chop gun would charge to do
it....

Plan B

There have two schools of thought:

Pour the foam, level it and lay the floor on top. This is similar to how
the factory did it.

Glass the floor and shoot in the foam.

Current i cannot find any reason I can pour the foam and then lay the
flooring and glass her back up. The foam is closed cell. Should have th
same density regardless of whether or not it presses up agains the floor. I
can pour some expoy over the cured foam and lay to flooring sealing it all
up like they did orginally. it lasted lifetime the first go round so i
think this may be the less stressful of the two.

I am OPEN to any comments on this chain as I do not profess to be an expert
just been reading and asking everyone what has been working.

Tom

Last thing Ian, pictures of my current descrution are on Phil's site I
think. look at 64 14' paquette

>
> From: Ian Torrey <itorrey@...>
> Date: 2007/06/19 Tue AM 11:27:20 EDT
> To: "'Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's'"
> <omc-boats@...>
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Transom Repair/Replacement
>
> Thanks Tom. Are you doing your floor and foam too?
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: omc-boats-bounces@...
> [mailto:omc-boats-bounces@...] On Behalf Of
> tpaquette@...
> Sent: June 18, 2007 11:42 AM
> To: Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Transom Repair/Replacement
>
> For the out board it is not too difficult.
>
> I can send you instructions on how I disassembled and my plan for
> reassembly.
>
> Try later tonite if I have time
>
> Tom
> >
> > From: Ian Torrey (QNX) <itorrey@...>
> > Date: 2007/06/14 Thu AM 09:36:38 EDT
> > To: omc-boats@...
> > Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Transom Repair/Replacement
> >
> > Thanks for your responses, Lee and Tom. I removed the outboard motor
> > last night, and found things were not very pretty back there. A good
> > portion of the transom is really spongy - bad enough that I don't
> > think it's worth even trying to make any short term repairs. I think
> > the only way I'll feel safe putting this one in the water is with
> > the full transom replacement (and probably floor and foam too).
> >
> > Tom, do you have a plan for how you are approaching your full
> > replacement? Looks like the outboards might be a bit harder to work
> > on from the inside than in Lee's stern drive photos. Lee, in your
> > photos, there only seems to be one layer of 'glass. Have you already
> > cut out an inside layer before adding the 3/4" plywood, or is that
> > all the transom the stringer drives required? My transom appears to
> > be about three 1/2" sheets of plywood sandwiched between inner and
> > outer fiberglass panels, with a 2x6" horizontal brace running the
> > full width across the back on the inside, and a smaller brace right
> > above the bilge well.
> >
> > Also, any thoughts on products like Seacast pourable transom repair?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Ian
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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> >
>
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Received on Wednesday, 20 June 2007