Re: [OMC-Boats] Transom Repair/Replacement

From: lib1@...
Date: Thu, 14 Jun 2007 08:36:45 -0600

Q.>>Lee, in your
> photos, there only seems to be one layer of 'glass. Have you already
> cut out an inside layer before adding the 3/4" plywood, or is that
> all the transom the stringer drives required?

A. Ian, you are correct that my 66 sterndrive originally had only a very
thin fiberglass "skin."
The entire "structual" support was provided by the steel channel frame that
bolted a) into the floor stringers, and b) to the transom lifting eyes. On
the early sterndrives the top of the intermediate gear case was also bolted
to this frame. After 67 this frame was eliminated and all sterndrives became
floor-mounted using four points that bolted into the floor stringers. I
added the interior plywood to provide support for the Bennent trim tabs and
additional support for the lifting eyes.
I retained part of the steel frame but also added "struts" to provide fore
and aft support on the transom eyes whell towing tubes and skiers.

There's a lot of good advice on fiberglass and specifically transom repairs
on outboards over on the forums at www.fiberglassics.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ian Torrey (QNX)" <itorrey@...>
To: <omc-boats@...>
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2007 7:36 AM
Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] Transom Repair/Replacement

> Thanks for your responses, Lee and Tom. I removed the outboard motor
> last night, and found things were not very pretty back there. A good
> portion of the transom is really spongy - bad enough that I don't
> think it's worth even trying to make any short term repairs. I think
> the only way I'll feel safe putting this one in the water is with the
> full transom replacement (and probably floor and foam too).
>
> Tom, do you have a plan for how you are approaching your full
> replacement? Looks like the outboards might be a bit harder to work
> on from the inside than in Lee's stern drive photos. Lee, in your
> photos, there only seems to be one layer of 'glass. Have you already
> cut out an inside layer before adding the 3/4" plywood, or is that
> all the transom the stringer drives required? My transom appears to
> be about three 1/2" sheets of plywood sandwiched between inner and
> outer fiberglass panels, with a 2x6" horizontal brace running the
> full width across the back on the inside, and a smaller brace right
> above the bilge well.
>
> Also, any thoughts on products like Seacast pourable transom repair?
>
> Thanks,
> Ian
>
>
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Received on Thursday, 14 June 2007

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