Hi Keith
I've fixed the tilt drive on three Sportsman 155's now and each had the same
problem you describe - hit the tilt switch and the worm gear and its shaft
are ejected into the lake... They are retained in the cast housing with a
woefully under-engineered snap ring. Sometime around 1975 OMC admitted the
problem and produced a retainer bracket part to be retrofitted to old
stringer drives. Installation involves drilling a couple of holes in the
casting for screws.
For about three more weeks, you can see this retainer bracket in the photos
of this intermediate housing sold on Ebay:
Note that this problem was common to many OMC stringer outdrives for a lot
of different boats, so this part can usually be found at a boat junkyard. I
bought one mail-order for $20 from this guy:
You can also try any boat repair shop that's been around since the 1980's or
so.
Good luck. I have tied up the outdrive with a rope on several occasions.
-Doug Julien
----- Original Message -----
From: "omc-boats-digest" <owner-omc-boats-digest@...>
To: <omc-boats-digest@...>
Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2006 11:00 AM
Subject: omc-boats-digest V1 #601
>
> omc-boats-digest Tuesday, September 26 2006 Volume 01 : Number
601
>
>
>
> [omc-boats] OMC - only plain text messages?
> [omc-boats] MIME-Version: 1.0
> Re: [omc-boats]Top Speed variables
> RE: [omc-boats]Top Speed variables
> Re: [omc-boats] Additional Engine Cowl Cover Forced Air Ventilation
> Re: [omc-boats]Top Speed variables
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 13:46:07 -0400
> From: Micah Donahue <mdonahue@...>
> Subject: [omc-boats] OMC - only plain text messages?
>
> All --
> I'm sure I'm not the only one that has to wade through a mess of HTML
> in the OMC digests. Is there any way contributors could use plain
> text messages instead of rich text or HTML? Or is there a way to cut
> that stuff out (I'm on a Mac if it matters)?
>
> Just wondering, 1,000 apologies if this has already been covered. And
> certainly worth the sifting through time given the expertise on this
> list!
>
> Cheers,
> - -Micah
>
>
> - -----
> To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 16:14:30 -0700
> From: <ruddfamily4@...>
> Subject: [omc-boats] MIME-Version: 1.0
>
> I have a 1969 sportsman, i believe i am the 3rd owner and have owned the
boat for over 20 years with very little trouble, The only problem i seem to
have that re-occurs is the tilt mech. breaks, the clultch doesn't work or
doensn't work properly.
> If i hit anything, the unit raises up but in the process it pushes the
worm gear and cap out of the end of the thilt mech. and into the bottom of
the lake. Last time it broke some of the alum casting around the retaining
ring.
> I checked some web pages and the worm gear, o ring and brass plug are
pretty expensive. This old classic runs well, however i only get about 30mph
at 3800 rpm with the v6.
> I am looking for suggestions to remedy the tilt problem, and suggestions
on increaasing the speed to closer to the factory spec of 40mph.
> thanks for any advice.
> Keith
> - -----
> To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 21:47:32 -0600
> From: <lib1@...>
> Subject: Re: [omc-boats]Top Speed variables
>
> RE: Subject of Top Speed.
>
> You didn't say where you live, or which motor is in your Sportsman, but
> let's assume it's a 155 and you live 1000 ft ASL.
>
> 1) First start by getting the boat as light as possible. The 40 mph
factory
> claim was with no extra gear and a 170 pound average weight pilot. You can
> even go weigh the boat and trailer on a public scale (disconnected from
your
> tow vehicle). If you have the Evinrude trailer and the fuel tank is less
> than half full you should see something around 1850 - 1900 lbs on the boat
> and 400 to 500 on the trailer for a total boat, v6 motor, and trailer of
> around 2200 to 2400 lbs. The boat may have gained weight from water below
> the floor, but most likely you're lugging several hundred pounds of
"stuff"
> around. Weight is the most common speed killer.
>
> 2) Next be sure and check the condition of the hull bottom for excess
drag.
> Wax and buff it out if possible. Always do you top speed runs in calm
water
> with no winds. Try to make your runs in opposite directions, to cancel out
> wind or currents. Dirty bottoms are also a speed killer. You 69 hull is
> slightly (5 percent) more efficient that the 64 - 68 Sportsmans, but that
> can get quickly offset with any crap on the bottom or deformation of the
> hull due to trailer "hooking."
>
> 3) What is your altitude above sea level? Your horsepower is reduced 4 %
for
> every 1000 ft above sea level. For example, at 1500 ft you lose 6 percent,
> no way around it. At 6000 ft ASL where I boat, I lose 24 percent of the
> available hp. But where I live , we understand the effects of air
density,
> most people never take it into consideration, unless they are an aircraft
> pilot flying out West.
>
> 4) Check your speedometer accuracy against a GPS. The old pitot
> speedometers are usually pretty accurate when held at a steady, on-plane,
> speed in smooth waters. Check your tach accuracy against another just for
> good measure, as well. We used to measure off a known distance and clock
> timed runs for determining accurate speed, but now with GPS that's a bit
old
> fashioned.
>
> 5) If your engine is truly only able to turn a true 3800 rpm, then you
> should consider swinging a smaller pitch prop. The 16-footers usually came
> with a 16-inch-pitch prop, verify the pitch by getting the number off of
the
> prop. They range from 12 to 20-inch pitch. Your engine, if properly tuned
> should run WOT (wide open throttle) at 4300 to 4500 rpm, with 4400 the
> factory recommended redline. By only turning 3800 you are probably losing
15
> % of your power. A two-inch decrease in prop pitch will generally yield
> another 500 rpm at WOT. Also, a stainless steel prop will generally pickup
1
> to 2 mph over the aluminum. See Prop part number info at:
> http://hhscott.com/evinrude/choosing_a_prop.htm
>
> 6) Check your gear ratio. It's not unheard of for a previous owner
swapping
> the sterndrive. It's easy, you count how many revolutions the engine makes
> for one turn of the prop. On a V6 the engine turns 1.5 times for one turn
of
> the prop. A V8 is close to 1-to-1. IF somehow your V6 is now turning V8
> gears, you won't have the torque to turn "tall" of gearing. And you won't
be
> able to decrease prop pitch enough. (Of all the variables I've listed,
this
> last one is least likely.)
>
>
>
> If you are interested in seeing how these variables all can cause your
> boat's top speed to vary greatly, play with the online speed calculator
at:
>
> http://hhscott.com/evinrude/docs/BSLAC.htm
>
> I plugged in the numbers and 30 - 31 mph is about right for a V6 @... 3800
RPM
> in a Sportsman, at 1000 ft ASL, with 4 adults on board and a couple
hundred
> pounds of fuel and gear. My recommendation is try spinning a smaller-pitch
> prop and/or put the boat on a diet.
>
>
> - ----- Original Message -----
> From: <ruddfamily4@...>
> To: <omc-boats@...>
> Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 5:14 PM
> Subject: [omc-boats] MIME-Version: 1.0
>
>
> >I have a 1969 sportsman, i believe i am the 3rd owner and have owned the
> >boat for over 20 years with very little trouble, The only problem i seem
to
> >have that re-occurs is the tilt mech. breaks, the clultch doesn't work or
> >doensn't work properly.
> > If i hit anything, the unit raises up but in the process it pushes the
> > worm gear and cap out of the end of the thilt mech. and into the bottom
of
> > the lake. Last time it broke some of the alum casting around the
retaining
> > ring.
> > I checked some web pages and the worm gear, o ring and brass plug are
> > pretty expensive. This old classic runs well, however i only get about
> > 30mph at 3800 rpm with the v6.
> > I am looking for suggestions to remedy the tilt problem, and suggestions
> > on increaasing the speed to closer to the factory spec of 40mph.
> > thanks for any advice.
> > Keith
> > -----
> > To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
> >
>
> - -----
> To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 23:04:19 -0500
> From: Willie Anderson <willie@...>
> Subject: RE: [omc-boats]Top Speed variables
>
> In point 2, you mentioned trailer "hooking". What exactly is that? My
hull deforms a bit were it sits in the rollers. Is that normal or a sign of
money yet to be spent?
>
> Thanks,
> Willie.
>
> 68 Sportsman 155.
>
> - -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-omc-boats@...
> [mailto:owner-omc-boats@...]On Behalf Of lib1@...
> Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 10:48 PM
> To: omc-boats@...
> Subject: Re: [omc-boats]Top Speed variables
>
>
> RE: Subject of Top Speed.
>
> You didn't say where you live, or which motor is in your Sportsman, but
> let's assume it's a 155 and you live 1000 ft ASL.
>
> 1) First start by getting the boat as light as possible. The 40 mph
factory
> claim was with no extra gear and a 170 pound average weight pilot. You can
> even go weigh the boat and trailer on a public scale (disconnected from
your
> tow vehicle). If you have the Evinrude trailer and the fuel tank is less
> than half full you should see something around 1850 - 1900 lbs on the boat
> and 400 to 500 on the trailer for a total boat, v6 motor, and trailer of
> around 2200 to 2400 lbs. The boat may have gained weight from water below
> the floor, but most likely you're lugging several hundred pounds of
"stuff"
> around. Weight is the most common speed killer.
>
> 2) Next be sure and check the condition of the hull bottom for excess
drag.
> Wax and buff it out if possible. Always do you top speed runs in calm
water
> with no winds. Try to make your runs in opposite directions, to cancel out
> wind or currents. Dirty bottoms are also a speed killer. You 69 hull is
> slightly (5 percent) more efficient that the 64 - 68 Sportsmans, but that
> can get quickly offset with any crap on the bottom or deformation of the
> hull due to trailer "hooking."
>
> 3) What is your altitude above sea level? Your horsepower is reduced 4 %
for
> every 1000 ft above sea level. For example, at 1500 ft you lose 6 percent,
> no way around it. At 6000 ft ASL where I boat, I lose 24 percent of the
> available hp. But where I live , we understand the effects of air
density,
> most people never take it into consideration, unless they are an aircraft
> pilot flying out West.
>
> 4) Check your speedometer accuracy against a GPS. The old pitot
> speedometers are usually pretty accurate when held at a steady, on-plane,
> speed in smooth waters. Check your tach accuracy against another just for
> good measure, as well. We used to measure off a known distance and clock
> timed runs for determining accurate speed, but now with GPS that's a bit
old
> fashioned.
>
> 5) If your engine is truly only able to turn a true 3800 rpm, then you
> should consider swinging a smaller pitch prop. The 16-footers usually came
> with a 16-inch-pitch prop, verify the pitch by getting the number off of
the
> prop. They range from 12 to 20-inch pitch. Your engine, if properly tuned
> should run WOT (wide open throttle) at 4300 to 4500 rpm, with 4400 the
> factory recommended redline. By only turning 3800 you are probably losing
15
> % of your power. A two-inch decrease in prop pitch will generally yield
> another 500 rpm at WOT. Also, a stainless steel prop will generally pickup
1
> to 2 mph over the aluminum. See Prop part number info at:
> http://hhscott.com/evinrude/choosing_a_prop.htm
>
> 6) Check your gear ratio. It's not unheard of for a previous owner
swapping
> the sterndrive. It's easy, you count how many revolutions the engine makes
> for one turn of the prop. On a V6 the engine turns 1.5 times for one turn
of
> the prop. A V8 is close to 1-to-1. IF somehow your V6 is now turning V8
> gears, you won't have the torque to turn "tall" of gearing. And you won't
be
> able to decrease prop pitch enough. (Of all the variables I've listed,
this
> last one is least likely.)
>
>
>
> If you are interested in seeing how these variables all can cause your
> boat's top speed to vary greatly, play with the online speed calculator
at:
>
> http://hhscott.com/evinrude/docs/BSLAC.htm
>
> I plugged in the numbers and 30 - 31 mph is about right for a V6 @... 3800
RPM
> in a Sportsman, at 1000 ft ASL, with 4 adults on board and a couple
hundred
> pounds of fuel and gear. My recommendation is try spinning a smaller-pitch
> prop and/or put the boat on a diet.
>
>
> - ----- Original Message -----
> From: <ruddfamily4@...>
> To: <omc-boats@...>
> Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 5:14 PM
> Subject: [omc-boats] MIME-Version: 1.0
>
>
> >I have a 1969 sportsman, i believe i am the 3rd owner and have owned the
> >boat for over 20 years with very little trouble, The only problem i seem
to
> >have that re-occurs is the tilt mech. breaks, the clultch doesn't work or
> >doensn't work properly.
> > If i hit anything, the unit raises up but in the process it pushes the
> > worm gear and cap out of the end of the thilt mech. and into the bottom
of
> > the lake. Last time it broke some of the alum casting around the
retaining
> > ring.
> > I checked some web pages and the worm gear, o ring and brass plug are
> > pretty expensive. This old classic runs well, however i only get about
> > 30mph at 3800 rpm with the v6.
> > I am looking for suggestions to remedy the tilt problem, and suggestions
> > on increaasing the speed to closer to the factory spec of 40mph.
> > thanks for any advice.
> > Keith
> > -----
> > To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
> >
>
> - -----
> To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
>
>
> - --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.12.8/455 - Release Date: 9/22/2006
>
>
>
> - -----
> To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 21:59:45 -0600
> From: <lib1@...>
> Subject: Re: [omc-boats] Additional Engine Cowl Cover Forced Air
Ventilation
>
> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>
> - ------=_NextPart_000_0D5B_01C6E0ED.E9B40D40
> Content-Type: text/plain;
> charset="iso-8859-1"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
> That's actually a good concern and I thank you for raising it. The fans =
> contain a brushless DC motor inside the hub of the fan. It's (probably) =
> much more likely you'd get a spark from faulty wiring than any arcing =
> from the fan motor. To be totally safe, I should raise the cowl before =
> switching them into operation.
>
> Lee
> ----- Original Message -----=20
> From: knight=20
> To: omc-boats@...=20
> Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 7:44 AM
> Subject: RE: [omc-boats] Additional Engine Cowl Cover Forced Air =
> Ventilation
>
>
> I'm wondering if using the fans is right. Yes a great idea but are the =
> fans sealed to prevent gas vapors from entering the fan motors and =
> igniting. Yes gas vapors are heavier than air so I guess I'm just =
> babbling. BUT...
>
> =20
>
> From: owner-omc-boats@... =
> [mailto:owner-omc-boats@...] On Behalf Of jdood
> Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 10:39 PM
> To: omc-boats@...
>
>
> Subject: RE: [omc-boats] Additional Engine Cowl Cover Forced Air =
> Ventilation
>
> =20
>
> Gee...a picture of this would be so great..I know I know.no photos =
> allowed on the list - sigh.
>
> =20
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-omc-boats@... =
> [mailto:owner-omc-boats@...] On Behalf Of lib1@...
> Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 6:34 PM
> To: omc-boats@...
> Subject: [omc-boats] Additional Engine Cowl Cover Forced Air =
> Ventilation
>
> =20
>
> Awhile back there was a post that mentioned a sterndrive boat seemed =
> to run better with the engine cover removed.
>
> =20
>
> The discussion got into maintaining proper ventilation of enclosed =
> engine bilge areas, a critical marine safety factor.
>
> =20
>
> Last winter I installed a Gas Detector monitor from CruzPro. See: =
> http://www.adventurercomputer.com/new_page_8.htm for details.
>
> =20
>
> =20
>
> It works really well. So well, in fact that if I do any extended =
> trolling or idling it will usually trip on & off. This isn't really a =
> false alarm, it's caused by the fumes the engine gives off when idling, =
> I think in the form of crankcase blow-by. I can crack open and prop-up =
> the clamshell lid and enough extra fresh air gets in to stop the alarm. =
> But that's a pain. My bilge blower takes longer to clear the alarms, =
> mainly because iit's designed to pull the heavy fuel vapor fumes off the =
> bottom, under the engine.
>
> =20
>
> Another, factor is I have the 65-66 style Reveler/Sportsman 150-155 =
> clamshell, one piece, engine cowl with the Buick-inspited, six portholes =
> or "ventiports" as Buick originally called them. When I stuffed the =
> bigger small block Chevy V8 into the same space as the smaller V6 Buick =
> things got a little tighter.
>
> =20
>
> So I had 4 extra 4.75-inch, 12-vdc computer muffin fins lying about. I =
> removed the 1/4 plywood flat pieces that are inside the engine cover =
> directly behind the portholes on each side.
>
> I then took a new plywood piece, and I cut two 4-inch holes on each =
> piece. After mounting the fans to pull outside air into the engine =
> compartment, I sealed the unit using some strips of foam. By sealing the =
> "chamber" it forces the fans to only draw in fresh outside.
>
> =20
>
> It's very quiet, even with all four fans running. The idea is to =
> introduce a steady stream of fresh air into the engine bay, even when =
> the boat is not moving forward. The vents are high enough that I believe =
> the engine's flame arrester/carb will get plenty of fresh air. I haven't =
> finished the wiring yet, but I will provide a fused power source and =
> control switching. I want to be able to operate these fans independently =
> from the bilge blower. Each van draws about .75 amp, so all 4 running is =
> about 3 amps, which isn't very much.
>
> =20
>
> Hopefully, I'll be able to report how effectively it works, or not in =
> a couple of weeks, when I get a chance to visit Lake Powell. I'll also =
> try to get some pictures of the installation.
>
> =20
>
> Lee Shuster
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.12.8/455 - Release Date: =
> 9/22/2006
>
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.12.8/455 - Release Date: =
> 9/22/2006
>
>
> - ------=_NextPart_000_0D5B_01C6E0ED.E9B40D40
> Content-Type: text/html;
> charset="iso-8859-1"
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
> <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
> <HTML xmlns=3D"http://www.w3.org/TR/REC-html40" xmlns:v =3D=20
> "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" xmlns:o =3D=20
> "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" xmlns:w =3D=20
> "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:word" xmlns:st1 =3D=20
> "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags"><HEAD>
> <META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
> charset=3Diso-8859-1">
> <META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2900.2963" name=3DGENERATOR><o:SmartTagType =
>
> name=3D"PlaceName"=20
> namespaceuri=3D"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags"></o:SmartTagT=
> ype><o:SmartTagType=20
> name=3D"PlaceType"=20
> namespaceuri=3D"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags"></o:SmartTagT=
> ype><o:SmartTagType=20
> name=3D"place"=20
> namespaceuri=3D"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags"></o:SmartTagT=
> ype><o:SmartTagType=20
> name=3D"PersonName"=20
> namespaceuri=3D"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags"></o:SmartTagT=
> ype><!--[if !mso]>
> <STYLE>st1\:* {
> BEHAVIOR: url(#default#ieooui)
> }
> </STYLE>
> <![endif]-->
> <STYLE>
> <!--
> /* Font Definitions */
> @...
> {font-family:Tahoma;
> panose-1:2 11 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4;}
> /* Style Definitions */
> p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal
> {margin:0in;
> margin-bottom:.0001pt;
> font-size:12.0pt;
> font-family:"Times New Roman";}
> a:link, span.MsoHyperlink
> {color:blue;
> text-decoration:underline;}
> a:visited, span.MsoHyperlinkFollowed
> {color:blue;
> text-decoration:underline;}
> span.EmailStyle17
> {mso-style-type:personal;
> font-family:Arial;
> color:navy;}
> span.EmailStyle18
> {mso-style-type:personal-reply;
> font-family:Arial;
> color:navy;}
> @... Section1
> {size:8.5in 11.0in;
> margin:1.0in 1.25in 1.0in 1.25in;}
> div.Section1
> {page:Section1;}
> - -->
> </STYLE>
> <!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
> <o:shapedefaults v:ext=3D"edit" spidmax=3D"1026" />
> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
> <o:shapelayout v:ext=3D"edit">
> <o:idmap v:ext=3D"edit" data=3D"1" />
> </o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></HEAD>
> <BODY lang=3DEN-US vLink=3Dblue link=3Dblue bgColor=3Dwhite>
> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>That's actually a good concern and I =
> thank you for=20
> raising it. The fans contain a brushless DC motor inside the hub of =
> the=20
> fan. It's (probably) much more likely you'd get a spark from faulty =
> wiring than=20
> any arcing from the fan motor. To be totally safe, I should raise the =
> cowl=20
> before switching them into operation.</FONT></DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Lee</FONT></DIV>
> <BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
> style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
> BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
> <DIV=20
> style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
> black"><B>From:</B>=20
> <A title=3Dknight@... href=3D"mailto:knight@...">knight</A> =
> </DIV>
> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
> title=3Domc-boats@...=20
> href=3D"mailto:omc-boats@...">omc-boats@...</A> =
> </DIV>
> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Monday, September 25, =
> 2006 7:44=20
> AM</DIV>
> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> RE: [omc-boats] =
> Additional=20
> Engine Cowl Cover Forced Air Ventilation</DIV>
> <DIV><BR></DIV>
> <DIV class=3DSection1>
> <DIV>
> <P class=3DMsoNormal><FONT face=3DArial color=3Dnavy size=3D2><SPAN=20
> style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">I=92m =
> wondering if=20
> using the fans is right. Yes a great idea but are the fans sealed to =
> prevent=20
> gas vapors from entering the fan motors and igniting. Yes gas vapors =
> are=20
> heavier than air so I guess I=92m just babbling.=20
> BUT=85..<o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
> <P class=3DMsoNormal><FONT face=3DArial color=3Dnavy size=3D2><SPAN=20
> style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: =
> Arial"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
> <P class=3DMsoNormal><FONT face=3DArial color=3Dnavy size=3D2><SPAN=20
> style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: =
> Arial"> </SPAN></FONT><B><FONT=20
> face=3DTahoma size=3D2><SPAN=20
> style=3D"FONT-WEIGHT: bold; FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: =
> Tahoma">From:</SPAN></FONT></B><FONT=20
> face=3DTahoma size=3D2><SPAN style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: =
> Tahoma"> <A=20
> href=3D"mailto:owner-omc-boats@...">owner-<st1:PersonName=20
> w:st=3D"on">omc-boats@...</A></st1:PersonName>=20
> [mailto:owner-<st1:PersonName=20
> w:st=3D"on">omc-boats@...</st1:PersonName>] <B><SPAN=20
> style=3D"FONT-WEIGHT: bold">On Behalf Of </SPAN></B>jdood<BR><B><SPAN=20
> style=3D"FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Sent:</SPAN></B> Sunday, September 24, =
> 2006 10:39=20
> PM<BR><B><SPAN style=3D"FONT-WEIGHT: bold">To:</SPAN></B> <A=20
> =
> href=3D"mailto:omc-boats@...">omc-boats@...</A><o:p></o=
> :p></SPAN></FONT></P>
> <P class=3DMsoNormal><FONT face=3DTahoma size=3D2><SPAN=20
> style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Tahoma"><BR><B><SPAN=20
> style=3D"FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Subject:</SPAN></B> RE: [omc-boats] =
> Additional=20
> Engine Cowl Cover Forced Air =
> Ventilation</SPAN></FONT><o:p></o:p></P></DIV>
> <P class=3DMsoNormal><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman" size=3D3><SPAN=20
> style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
> <P class=3DMsoNormal><FONT face=3DArial color=3Dnavy size=3D2><SPAN=20
> style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">Gee=85..a =
> picture of=20
> this would be so great=85=85I know I know=85no photos allowed on the=20
> list - sigh.<o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
> <P class=3DMsoNormal><FONT face=3DArial color=3Dnavy size=3D2><SPAN=20
> style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; COLOR: navy; FONT-FAMILY: =
> Arial"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
> <P class=3DMsoNormal style=3D"MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><FONT face=3DTahoma =
> size=3D2><SPAN=20
> style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Tahoma">-----Original=20
> Message-----<BR><B><SPAN style=3D"FONT-WEIGHT: bold">From:</SPAN></B>=20
> owner-<st1:PersonName =
> w:st=3D"on">omc-boats@...</st1:PersonName>=20
> [mailto:owner-<st1:PersonName=20
> w:st=3D"on">omc-boats@...</st1:PersonName>] <B><SPAN=20
> style=3D"FONT-WEIGHT: bold">On Behalf Of =
> </SPAN></B>lib1@...<BR><B><SPAN=20
> style=3D"FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Sent:</SPAN></B> Sunday, September 24, =
> 2006 6:34=20
> PM<BR><B><SPAN style=3D"FONT-WEIGHT: bold">To:</SPAN></B> =
> <st1:PersonName=20
> w:st=3D"on">omc-boats@...</st1:PersonName><BR><B><SPAN=20
> style=3D"FONT-WEIGHT: bold">Subject:</SPAN></B> [omc-boats] Additional =
> Engine=20
> Cowl Cover Forced Air Ventilation</SPAN></FONT><o:p></o:p></P>
> <P class=3DMsoNormal style=3D"MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><FONT face=3D"Times =
> New Roman"=20
> size=3D3><SPAN style=3D"FONT-SIZE: =
> 12pt"><o:p> </o:p></SPAN></FONT></P>
> <DIV>
> <P class=3DMsoNormal style=3D"MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><FONT face=3DArial =
> size=3D2><SPAN=20
> style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">Awhile back there was a =
> post that=20
> mentioned a sterndrive boat seemed to run better with the engine cover =
>
> removed.</SPAN></FONT><o:p></o:p></P></DIV>
> <DIV>
> <P class=3DMsoNormal style=3D"MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><FONT face=3D"Times =
> New Roman"=20
> size=3D3><SPAN style=3D"FONT-SIZE: =
> 12pt"> <o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P></DIV>
> <DIV>
> <P class=3DMsoNormal style=3D"MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><FONT face=3DArial =
> size=3D2><SPAN=20
> style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">The discussion got into=20
> maintaining proper ventilation of enclosed engine bilge areas, a =
> critical=20
> marine safety factor.</SPAN></FONT><o:p></o:p></P></DIV>
> <DIV>
> <P class=3DMsoNormal style=3D"MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><FONT face=3D"Times =
> New Roman"=20
> size=3D3><SPAN style=3D"FONT-SIZE: =
> 12pt"> <o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P></DIV>
> <DIV>
> <P class=3DMsoNormal style=3D"MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><FONT face=3DArial =
> size=3D2><SPAN=20
> style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">Last winter I installed =
> a Gas=20
> Detector monitor from CruzPro. See: <A=20
> =
> href=3D"http://www.adventurercomputer.com/new_page_8.htm">http://www.adve=
> nturercomputer.com/new_page_8.htm</A> =20
> for details.</SPAN></FONT><o:p></o:p></P></DIV>
> <DIV>
> <P class=3DMsoNormal style=3D"MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><FONT face=3D"Times =
> New Roman"=20
> size=3D3><SPAN style=3D"FONT-SIZE: =
> 12pt"> <o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P></DIV>
> <DIV>
> <P class=3DMsoNormal style=3D"MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><FONT face=3D"Times =
> New Roman"=20
> size=3D3><SPAN style=3D"FONT-SIZE: =
> 12pt"> <o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P></DIV>
> <DIV>
> <P class=3DMsoNormal style=3D"MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><FONT face=3DArial =
> size=3D2><SPAN=20
> style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">It works really well. So =
> well, in=20
> fact that if I do any extended trolling or idling it will =
> usually trip on=20
> & off. This isn't really a false alarm, it's caused by the =
> fumes the=20
> engine gives off when idling, I think in the form of crankcase =
> blow-by. I can=20
> crack open and prop-up the clamshell lid and enough extra fresh air =
> gets in to=20
> stop the alarm. But that's a pain. My bilge blower takes longer to =
> clear the=20
> alarms, mainly because iit's designed to pull the heavy fuel vapor =
> fumes off=20
> the bottom, under the engine.</SPAN></FONT><o:p></o:p></P></DIV>
> <DIV>
> <P class=3DMsoNormal style=3D"MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><FONT face=3D"Times =
> New Roman"=20
> size=3D3><SPAN style=3D"FONT-SIZE: =
> 12pt"> <o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P></DIV>
> <DIV>
> <P class=3DMsoNormal style=3D"MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><FONT face=3DArial =
> size=3D2><SPAN=20
> style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">Another, factor is I =
> have the=20
> 65-66 style Reveler/Sportsman 150-155 clamshell, one piece, engine =
> cowl with=20
> the Buick-inspited, six portholes or "ventiports" as Buick originally =
> called=20
> them. When I stuffed the bigger small block Chevy V8 into the same =
> space as=20
> the smaller V6 Buick things got a little=20
> tighter.</SPAN></FONT><o:p></o:p></P></DIV>
> <DIV>
> <P class=3DMsoNormal style=3D"MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><FONT face=3D"Times =
> New Roman"=20
> size=3D3><SPAN style=3D"FONT-SIZE: =
> 12pt"> <o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P></DIV>
> <DIV>
> <P class=3DMsoNormal style=3D"MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><FONT face=3DArial =
> size=3D2><SPAN=20
> style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">So I had 4 extra =
> 4.75-inch, 12-vdc=20
> computer muffin fins lying about. I removed the 1/4 plywood flat =
> pieces=20
> that are inside the engine cover directly behind the portholes on each =
>
> side.</SPAN></FONT><o:p></o:p></P></DIV>
> <DIV>
> <P class=3DMsoNormal style=3D"MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><FONT face=3DArial =
> size=3D2><SPAN=20
> style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">I then took a new =
> plywood piece,=20
> and I cut two 4-inch holes on each piece. After mounting the fans to =
> pull=20
> outside air into the engine compartment, I sealed the unit using some =
> strips=20
> of foam. By sealing the "chamber" it forces the fans to only draw in =
> fresh=20
> outside.</SPAN></FONT><o:p></o:p></P></DIV>
> <DIV>
> <P class=3DMsoNormal style=3D"MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><FONT face=3D"Times =
> New Roman"=20
> size=3D3><SPAN style=3D"FONT-SIZE: =
> 12pt"> <o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P></DIV>
> <DIV>
> <P class=3DMsoNormal style=3D"MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><FONT face=3DArial =
> size=3D2><SPAN=20
> style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">It's very quiet, even =
> with all=20
> four fans running. The idea is to introduce a steady stream =
> of fresh air=20
> into the engine bay, even when the boat is not moving forward. The =
> vents are=20
> high enough that I believe the engine's flame arrester/carb will get =
> plenty of=20
> fresh air. I haven't finished the wiring yet, but I will provide =
> a fused=20
> power source and control switching. I want to be able to operate these =
>
> fans independently from the bilge blower. Each van draws about =
> .75 amp,=20
> so all 4 running is about 3 amps, which isn't very=20
> much.</SPAN></FONT><o:p></o:p></P></DIV>
> <DIV>
> <P class=3DMsoNormal style=3D"MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><FONT face=3D"Times =
> New Roman"=20
> size=3D3><SPAN style=3D"FONT-SIZE: =
> 12pt"> <o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P></DIV>
> <DIV>
> <P class=3DMsoNormal style=3D"MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><FONT face=3DArial =
> size=3D2><SPAN=20
> style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">Hopefully, I'll be able =
> to report=20
> how effectively it works, or not in a couple of weeks, when I get a =
> chance to=20
> visit <st1:place w:st=3D"on"><st1:PlaceType =
> w:st=3D"on">Lake</st1:PlaceType>=20
> <st1:PlaceName w:st=3D"on">Powell</st1:PlaceName></st1:place>. I'll =
> also try to=20
> get some pictures of the =
> installation.</SPAN></FONT><o:p></o:p></P></DIV>
> <DIV>
> <P class=3DMsoNormal style=3D"MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><FONT face=3D"Times =
> New Roman"=20
> size=3D3><SPAN style=3D"FONT-SIZE: =
> 12pt"> <o:p></o:p></SPAN></FONT></P></DIV>
> <DIV>
> <P class=3DMsoNormal style=3D"MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><FONT face=3DArial =
> size=3D2><SPAN=20
> style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">Lee=20
> Shuster</SPAN></FONT><o:p></o:p></P></DIV></DIV><BR>
> <P><FONT size=3D2>--<BR>No virus found in this incoming =
> message.<BR>Checked by=20
> AVG Free Edition.<BR>Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.12.8/455 - =
> Release=20
> Date: 9/22/2006<BR></FONT></P><BR>
> <P><FONT size=3D2>--<BR>No virus found in this outgoing =
> message.<BR>Checked by=20
> AVG Free Edition.<BR>Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.12.8/455 - =
> Release=20
> Date: 9/22/2006<BR></FONT></P></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
>
> - ------=_NextPart_000_0D5B_01C6E0ED.E9B40D40--
>
> - -----
> To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 25 Sep 2006 22:09:40 -0600
> From: <lib1@...>
> Subject: Re: [omc-boats]Top Speed variables
>
> If a boat's weight isn't supported by the trailer supports properly, the
> hull bottom can hook or sag and change the performance.
>
> Most likely, if your boat has always sat on the Evinrude trailer designed
> for it, then it's probably OK.
>
> Just the same, I always loosen the tie-down tension in storage to reduce
the
> possibility.
>
> Not a lot one can afford to do when this occurs. In the speed calculator
you
> would reduce the efiiciency number slightly lower on the hull from new.
>
> Lee
>
>
>
> - ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Willie Anderson" <willie@...>
> To: <omc-boats@...>
> Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 10:04 PM
> Subject: RE: [omc-boats]Top Speed variables
>
>
> > In point 2, you mentioned trailer "hooking". What exactly is that? My
> > hull deforms a bit were it sits in the rollers. Is that normal or a sign
> > of money yet to be spent?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Willie.
> >
> > 68 Sportsman 155.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-omc-boats@...
> > [mailto:owner-omc-boats@...]On Behalf Of lib1@...
> > Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 10:48 PM
> > To: omc-boats@...
> > Subject: Re: [omc-boats]Top Speed variables
> >
> >
> > RE: Subject of Top Speed.
> >
> > You didn't say where you live, or which motor is in your Sportsman, but
> > let's assume it's a 155 and you live 1000 ft ASL.
> >
> > 1) First start by getting the boat as light as possible. The 40 mph
> > factory
> > claim was with no extra gear and a 170 pound average weight pilot. You
can
> > even go weigh the boat and trailer on a public scale (disconnected from
> > your
> > tow vehicle). If you have the Evinrude trailer and the fuel tank is less
> > than half full you should see something around 1850 - 1900 lbs on the
boat
> > and 400 to 500 on the trailer for a total boat, v6 motor, and trailer of
> > around 2200 to 2400 lbs. The boat may have gained weight from water
below
> > the floor, but most likely you're lugging several hundred pounds of
> > "stuff"
> > around. Weight is the most common speed killer.
> >
> > 2) Next be sure and check the condition of the hull bottom for excess
> > drag.
> > Wax and buff it out if possible. Always do you top speed runs in calm
> > water
> > with no winds. Try to make your runs in opposite directions, to cancel
out
> > wind or currents. Dirty bottoms are also a speed killer. You 69 hull is
> > slightly (5 percent) more efficient that the 64 - 68 Sportsmans, but
that
> > can get quickly offset with any crap on the bottom or deformation of the
> > hull due to trailer "hooking."
> >
> > 3) What is your altitude above sea level? Your horsepower is reduced 4 %
> > for
> > every 1000 ft above sea level. For example, at 1500 ft you lose 6
percent,
> > no way around it. At 6000 ft ASL where I boat, I lose 24 percent of the
> > available hp. But where I live , we understand the effects of air
> > density,
> > most people never take it into consideration, unless they are an
aircraft
> > pilot flying out West.
> >
> > 4) Check your speedometer accuracy against a GPS. The old pitot
> > speedometers are usually pretty accurate when held at a steady,
on-plane,
> > speed in smooth waters. Check your tach accuracy against another just
for
> > good measure, as well. We used to measure off a known distance and clock
> > timed runs for determining accurate speed, but now with GPS that's a bit
> > old
> > fashioned.
> >
> > 5) If your engine is truly only able to turn a true 3800 rpm, then you
> > should consider swinging a smaller pitch prop. The 16-footers usually
came
> > with a 16-inch-pitch prop, verify the pitch by getting the number off of
> > the
> > prop. They range from 12 to 20-inch pitch. Your engine, if properly
tuned
> > should run WOT (wide open throttle) at 4300 to 4500 rpm, with 4400 the
> > factory recommended redline. By only turning 3800 you are probably
losing
> > 15
> > % of your power. A two-inch decrease in prop pitch will generally yield
> > another 500 rpm at WOT. Also, a stainless steel prop will generally
pickup
> > 1
> > to 2 mph over the aluminum. See Prop part number info at:
> > http://hhscott.com/evinrude/choosing_a_prop.htm
> >
> > 6) Check your gear ratio. It's not unheard of for a previous owner
> > swapping
> > the sterndrive. It's easy, you count how many revolutions the engine
makes
> > for one turn of the prop. On a V6 the engine turns 1.5 times for one
turn
> > of
> > the prop. A V8 is close to 1-to-1. IF somehow your V6 is now turning V8
> > gears, you won't have the torque to turn "tall" of gearing. And you
won't
> > be
> > able to decrease prop pitch enough. (Of all the variables I've listed,
> > this
> > last one is least likely.)
> >
> >
> >
> > If you are interested in seeing how these variables all can cause your
> > boat's top speed to vary greatly, play with the online speed calculator
> > at:
> >
> > http://hhscott.com/evinrude/docs/BSLAC.htm
> >
> > I plugged in the numbers and 30 - 31 mph is about right for a V6 @... 3800
> > RPM
> > in a Sportsman, at 1000 ft ASL, with 4 adults on board and a couple
> > hundred
> > pounds of fuel and gear. My recommendation is try spinning a
smaller-pitch
> > prop and/or put the boat on a diet.
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <ruddfamily4@...>
> > To: <omc-boats@...>
> > Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 5:14 PM
> > Subject: [omc-boats] MIME-Version: 1.0
> >
> >
> >>I have a 1969 sportsman, i believe i am the 3rd owner and have owned the
> >>boat for over 20 years with very little trouble, The only problem i seem
> >>to
> >>have that re-occurs is the tilt mech. breaks, the clultch doesn't work
or
> >>doensn't work properly.
> >> If i hit anything, the unit raises up but in the process it pushes the
> >> worm gear and cap out of the end of the thilt mech. and into the bottom
> >> of
> >> the lake. Last time it broke some of the alum casting around the
> >> retaining
> >> ring.
> >> I checked some web pages and the worm gear, o ring and brass plug are
> >> pretty expensive. This old classic runs well, however i only get about
> >> 30mph at 3800 rpm with the v6.
> >> I am looking for suggestions to remedy the tilt problem, and
suggestions
> >> on increaasing the speed to closer to the factory spec of 40mph.
> >> thanks for any advice.
> >> Keith
> >> -----
> >> To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
> >>
> >
> > -----
> > To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
> >
> >
> > --
> > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.12.8/455 - Release Date:
9/22/2006
> >
> >
> >
> > -----
> > To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
> >
>
> - -----
> To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of omc-boats-digest V1 #601
> *******************************
>
> -----
> To get off this list send mail to
omc-boats-digest-unsubscribe@...
-----
To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
Received on Tuesday, 26 September 2006
This archive was generated by hypermail 2.2.0 : Tuesday, 29 July 2014 EDT