Re: [omc-boats] BAD NEWS

From: Ryan <kmoore12@...>
Date: Mon, 19 Dec 2005 07:41:22 -0500

What kind of speed you get with the V8? I might be able to do some engine
swapping and maybe afford to do this. This boat has allways been a little
slow coming out of the hole. About changing the upper gear...what about
changing the prop instead? You say the exhaust manifold fits the V8?

Ryan
----- Original Message -----
From: <lib1@...>
To: <omc-boats@...>
Sent: Sunday, December 11, 2005 1:36 PM
Subject: Re: [omc-boats] BAD NEWS

> Hi Ryan,
>
> I'd say that before you go much further you probably need to pull the 225
> and determine the health of the short block, ie the crankshaft, bearings,
> pistons and rings. Most likely they are getting pretty tired and you won't
> know how much damage has been caused with water breaking down the oil that
> you say "looks like mud." This is best done with the engine out of the
> boat so you can pull the oil pan and inspect the crankshaft and bearings.
>
> If it were mine, I would not go to the trouble of "swapping" or
> re-installing the even-fire 231 into the boat; without first thouroughly
> checking out it's running condition as well. While it's on the stand, you
> could pull the pan and check out it's crankshaft and also also check out
> it's compression.
>
> BTW, it's getting hard to fine an engine rebuilder who will still do the
> 225 Buick/Jeep V6, but Jasper Engines completely redo long-blocks if you
> send them the core. Not sure what they charge these days, but I'm guess
> the charges will fall in the $2000 to $2500 range, which is quite a bit
> more than a small block Chevy V8, simply because they don't get much call
> for the Buick V6 anymore. But you do get a fresh engine, including heads,
> that has a warranty.
>
> Just a thought: ->>> I don't know about your 69 Sportsman, but I suspect
> you could get the small block Chevy V8 to fit in your engine bay, as I did
> on my 66 Sportsman. See: http://hhscott.com/evinrude/chevy_v8.htm
>
> If you consider the SBC V8 swap you'll need the exhaust manifolds from the
> 210, 215, 225, 235, or 245 hp OMC. You should also change out the
> sterndrive upper gear ratio from a similar V8-powered OMC electric
> stringer sterndrive, as the V8 would be revving too high with the stock V6
> gearing. SBC Chevy parts (even OMC-specific) are plentiful and cheap on
> eBay. The 210 hp (307 cid - 5.0L) was used in the 68-70 19-ft Evinrude and
> Johnson boats. It makes the16-ft Sportsman run much smoother and it gets
> better mileage than the V6, because most of the time it's not working as
> hard.
>
> Just curious if you have checked the sterndrive yet? You can tell a lot be
> draining the vital fluids and looking for water or metal.
>
> Lee Shuster
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ryan" <kmoore12@...>
> To: <omc-boats@...>
> Sent: Saturday, December 10, 2005 1:13 PM
> Subject: Re: [omc-boats] BAD NEWS
>
>
>>I check compression on all 6 cylinders 3 times each. I found that I have
>>one bad cylinder that is squirting water out of it when I crank it over
>>and the compression is low. First test was 100 then 90, then 70. :( The
>>other cylinders were 125, 125, 130, 130, 145 average. Oh! The oil looks
>>like a light colored brown mud.
>>
>> Should I change head gasket and possibly the head or just swap motors
>> with that 231 that come out of a 83,84 Buick Regal?
>>
>> I'm still shooting for spring!
>> Ryan
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Ethan Brodsky" <brodskye@...>
>> To: <omc-boats@...>
>> Sent: Saturday, December 10, 2005 12:08 AM
>> Subject: Re: [omc-boats] new member
>>
>>
>>> On Fri, 9 Dec 2005, Ryan wrote:
>>>> Ok..I got a compression gage. The guy who loaned it to me said I
>>>> should
>>>> check not only the compression but also the tolerance between
>>>> cylinders??? I assume that means make sure one cylinder isn't way more
>>>> or less the than others. Any idea what the tolerance is + or - ? Is
>>>> this necessary?
>>>
>>> I recently picked up the factory service manual for the 1970 155 HP OMC
>>> V-6. It specifies the following procedure for compression testing:
>>>
>>> (a) Remove all spark plugs
>>> (b) Put throttle and choke in wide open position
>>> (c) Remove wire from coil to distributor cap and ground securely to
>>> engine
>>> (d) Attach remote starter switch to starter assist solenoid
>>> (e) Insert compression gauge in spark plug port. Crank engine through
>>> at least 4 compression strokes to obtain the highest possible
>>> reading.
>>> (f) Check compression of each chlinder. Repeat a second time and record
>>> the highest reading for each cylinder
>>> (g) The recorded compression pressures are to be considered normal if
>>> the
>>> lowest cylinder pressure reading is more than 75% of the highest
>>> (h) Example: 129,135,140,121,120,100 - 75% of 140 is 105. Thus,
>>> cylinder 6
>>> is less than 75% of number 3. This condition, accompanied by low
>>> speed
>>> missing, indicates an improperly seated valve or worn or broken
>>> piston
>>> ring.
>>> (i) If one or more cylinders reads low, inject about a tablespoon of
>>> engine
>>> oil on top of the piston in low reading cylinder through the spark
>>> plug
>>> port. Repeat compression check on these cylinders
>>> (1) If compression improves considerably, rings are worn
>>> (2) If compression does not improve, valves are sticking or seating
>>> poorly
>>> (3) If two adjacent cylinders indicate low compression and injecting
>>> oil does not increase compression, the cause may be a head gasket
>>> leak between the two cylinders. Engine coolant and/or oil in
>>> cylinders could result from this defect.
>>>
>>> Also, for Mark (the guy with the boat that won't go), the shift coil
>>> resistance should be between 4.5 and 6.5 ohms, not the 2.xx ohms I
>>> quoted earlier. The current draw is specified as 2.2 +- 0.2 A.
>>>
>>> Ethan
>>> -----
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>>
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>>
>
>
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Received on Monday, 19 December 2005

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