If you want to throw money in a hole then go out and buy a new boat or take
up golf at the exclusive club. You have paid your dues and it will
eventually pay off. The water pumps for a boat are designed to pump salt
water in addition to fresh water therefore the difference. Thats about all I
know. I tow with a GMC 4X4 truck and do not have surge or elec. brakes and
it does ok. I bought a WESCO alum. trailer several years ago. It had to be
fitted with some damage occurring to the gelcoat from the dealers. I traded
because I couldnt get new tires for the 19ft trailer - go figure! You cant
beat those old trailers if you can keep them in shape.I restored the name
plate on the back of the boat (Rogue) masking off the script with a razor
knife and masking tape and painted it with a primer followed by a black
textured paint from LOWE'S. The paint is outdoor for furniture or fixtures
and does a good job. I stripped the original paint off which was in pretty
bad shape. Good luck this spring. You know there should be a tell tale water
jet from the rear that tells you the water pump is pushing water through the
system. Get a SELOC manual and check it out. TK
----- Original Message -----
From: "omc-boats-digest" <owner-omc-boats-digest@...>
To: <omc-boats-digest@...>
Sent: Monday, March 14, 2005 12:00 PM
Subject: omc-boats-digest V1 #250
>
> omc-boats-digest Monday, March 14 2005 Volume 01 : Number
> 250
>
>
>
> Re: [omc-boats] Re: Water in the engine oil
> [omc-boats] Re: Buick V6 water pump
> [omc-boats] Tow Vehicles
> Re: [omc-boats] Tow Vehicles
> Re: [omc-boats] Re: Buick V6 water pump
> Re: [omc-boats] Tow Vehicles
> [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #249
> Re: [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #249
> Re: [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #249
> Re: [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #249
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2005 12:23:08 -0600
> From: Paige <windfallfarm@...>
> Subject: Re: [omc-boats] Re: Water in the engine oil
>
> My 1969 Johnson Reveler Buick V6 155hp experienced an overhaul after a
> serious
> breakdown after years of poor service, bad winterization, and abuse. I
> experienced the oil/water concoction (greatly resembles brain grey matter)
> after
> blowing the head gasket and what I thought was one freeze plug that got
> blown.
> After the mechanic replaced the exhaust mainfolds and elbows, replaced the
> cylinder heads with reconditioned used ones, and one head gasket later,
> the poor
> old boat "shit the bed" the next season after the impeller fried. The
> impeller
> has been replaced with new o rings, key, and seals, new solonoids,
> thermostat,
> blower, and one new (expensive) tilt motor before winterizing last fall
> without
> running it on water. Now I have 3 feet of snow covering it so it should
> be a
> while before she sees water this spring. I will cross my fingers that
> most of
> the expensive replacements are over with. Unfortunately the water pump
> was
> replaced years ago with the automotive equivalent. So far there are no
> issues
> with this but I will be replacing it with the regulatory approved
> (expensive yet
> again) marine water pump. I tow this boat on a Shoreliner trailer with
> rollers
> (would rather it be pads) and she is a beast to haul, moreso to stop
> without
> trailer brakes. I would never be throwing money into a hole in the water
> but
> this boat in particular has a tremendous amount of sentimental value to me
> besides being an American relic. I would like to replace the verneer
> "Johnson
> Reveler" nameplate along the transom if anyone comes across one in good
> condition. After she is up and running good, I need to address the
> interior
> (original seats and flooring). Run first, look good later. Thanks, Paige
>
> LeeHazen@... wrote:
>
>> I have mentioined this previously I think - I have a l971 Johnson Surfer
>> 19'
>> runabout with the 307 Chevy 210 hp engine.
>>
>> The oil had water mixed with it and when I drained it, the oil was the
>> consistancy
>> of molassas.
>>
>> I suspect a bad intake manifold gasket as there is an Edelbrock intake
>> manifold on the engine rather than the chevy version.
>>
>> Has anyone else had this problem before ? The freeze plugs all look fine
>> and overall, the boat is in above average condition for its' age. The
>> boat
>> started up fine and idled smoothly right after I bought it 2 years ago.
>>
>> I've just finished up putting a composite deck board floor in my 20'
>> pontoon
>> boat and once it is back in service, I plan to start on the Surfer.
>>
>> Any suggestions would be appreciated..
>>
>> Lee Hazen, Hendersonville, TN Old Hickory Lake
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2005 10:39:46 -0700
> From: <lib1@...>
> Subject: [omc-boats] Re: Buick V6 water pump
>
>> Unfortunately the water pump was
>> replaced years ago with the automotive equivalent. So far there are no
>> issues
>> with this but I will be replacing it with the regulatory approved
>> (expensive yet
>> again) marine water pump.
>
> I wondered about replacement water pumps on the Buick/Kaiser 225 V6
> myself.
>
> Upon checking the original 1965 OMC parts manual and (other newer versions
> as well)
> the document has clearly labeled which engine parts are available from GM
> auto dealers, ie not unique OMC/marine parts.
> The water pump listed is the same as the auto version. Seems strange but
> in
> the case of the Buick V6 it seems to be true.
> Anyone else had experience replacing Buick V6 waterpumps on their OMC
> 150/155hp engines?
>
> Paige, sounds like your V6 powertrain should be good to go this season.
> Hope
> that snow melts soon!
>
> Lee
>
>
>
> - ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Paige" <windfallfarm@...>
> To: <omc-boats@...>
> Sent: Sunday, March 13, 2005 11:23 AM
> Subject: Re: [omc-boats] Re: Water in the engine oil
>
>
>> My 1969 Johnson Reveler Buick V6 155hp experienced an overhaul after a
>> serious
>> breakdown after years of poor service, bad winterization, and abuse. I
>> experienced the oil/water concoction (greatly resembles brain grey
>> matter)
>> after
>> blowing the head gasket and what I thought was one freeze plug that got
>> blown.
>> After the mechanic replaced the exhaust mainfolds and elbows, replaced
>> the
>> cylinder heads with reconditioned used ones, and one head gasket later,
>> the poor
>> old boat "shit the bed" the next season after the impeller fried. The
>> impeller
>> has been replaced with new o rings, key, and seals, new solonoids,
>> thermostat,
>> blower, and one new (expensive) tilt motor before winterizing last fall
>> without
>> running it on water. Now I have 3 feet of snow covering it so it should
>> be a
>> while before she sees water this spring. I will cross my fingers that
>> most of
>> the expensive replacements are over with. Unfortunately the water pump
>> was
>> replaced years ago with the automotive equivalent. So far there are no
>> issues
>> with this but I will be replacing it with the regulatory approved
>> (expensive yet
>> again) marine water pump. I tow this boat on a Shoreliner trailer with
>> rollers
>> (would rather it be pads) and she is a beast to haul, moreso to stop
>> without
>> trailer brakes. I would never be throwing money into a hole in the water
>> but
>> this boat in particular has a tremendous amount of sentimental value to
>> me
>> besides being an American relic. I would like to replace the verneer
>> "Johnson
>> Reveler" nameplate along the transom if anyone comes across one in good
>> condition. After she is up and running good, I need to address the
>> interior
>> (original seats and flooring). Run first, look good later. Thanks,
>> Paige
>>
>> LeeHazen@... wrote:
>>
>>> I have mentioined this previously I think - I have a l971 Johnson Surfer
>>> 19'
>>> runabout with the 307 Chevy 210 hp engine.
>>>
>>> The oil had water mixed with it and when I drained it, the oil was the
>>> consistancy
>>> of molassas.
>>>
>>> I suspect a bad intake manifold gasket as there is an Edelbrock intake
>>> manifold on the engine rather than the chevy version.
>>>
>>> Has anyone else had this problem before ? The freeze plugs all look
>>> fine
>>> and overall, the boat is in above average condition for its' age. The
>>> boat
>>> started up fine and idled smoothly right after I bought it 2 years ago.
>>>
>>> I've just finished up putting a composite deck board floor in my 20'
>>> pontoon
>>> boat and once it is back in service, I plan to start on the Surfer.
>>>
>>> Any suggestions would be appreciated..
>>>
>>> Lee Hazen, Hendersonville, TN Old Hickory Lake
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2005 15:19:33 -0700
> From: <lib1@...>
> Subject: [omc-boats] Tow Vehicles
>
> Paige mentioned towing his 16-foot Johnson is a handful without brakes,
> (assuming around 2400-2600 lbs for boat and trailer)
>
> That is a lot of extra stopping distance for most tow vehicles to cope
> with.
>
> 1) Just curious what members are using for tow vehicles, and
>
> 2) How many are using trailer brakes (which were optional on 16-ft'ers,
> standard on the 19-ft'ers.)
>
> Lee
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2005 18:47:19 EST
> From: LeeHazen@...
> Subject: Re: [omc-boats] Tow Vehicles
>
> In a message dated 3/13/05 4:26:26 PM Central Standard Time,
> lib1@...
> writes:
>
> << 1) Just curious what members are using for tow vehicles, and
>
> 2) How many are using trailer brakes (which were optional on 16-ft'ers,
> standard on the 19-ft'ers.)
> >>
> I use a l979 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser wagon with 403 engine and turbo 350
> transmission. I have an electric brake controller and wiring that I used
> with a
> travel trailer, but can't use them with the Johnson surge brakes. i'm
> sure
> the surge brakes need to be serviced - I doubt that they are working now.
>
> Lee Hazen
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2005 19:24:57 -0500
> From: "Andy Perakes" <aperakes@...>
> Subject: Re: [omc-boats] Re: Buick V6 water pump
>
> We've had to replace the water pump on our 1967 155 Hp Reveler roughly
> every
> 15 years since new. We had one rebuilt, but the last time I used a very
> expensive obsolete OMC. My dad tried an automotive varient at one point
> and
> it wasn't the same: In addition to the output for the heater core, the
> footprint was slightly different. At present I have one spare NOS pump
> and
> 2 spare gaskets awaiting the next repair...which should be in about 7 more
> years if everything runs to past schedule. After replacing the last pump
> I
> started pulling the main hose to help it dry out and prevent corrosion as
> part of the winterization routine. Not sure if it'll help any, but as
> said,
> I'll know in about 7 more years. Btw, the alternator has run on roughly
> the
> same schedule of replacement, but there's convenient replacements for
> those
> now. Regardless, I'm hanging onto all my old parts just in case. Other
> than one solenoid for the stern drive and the little cog that controls the
> stern lift, those are the only non-routine (plugs, cap, etc.) repairs
> we've
> had to make since it was purchased new in 1967.
>
> - ----- Original Message -----
> From: <lib1@...>
> To: <omc-boats@...>
> Sent: Sunday, March 13, 2005 12:39 PM
> Subject: [omc-boats] Re: Buick V6 water pump
>
>
>> > Unfortunately the water pump was
>> > replaced years ago with the automotive equivalent. So far there are no
>> > issues
>> > with this but I will be replacing it with the regulatory approved
>> > (expensive yet
>> > again) marine water pump.
>>
>> I wondered about replacement water pumps on the Buick/Kaiser 225 V6
> myself.
>>
>> Upon checking the original 1965 OMC parts manual and (other newer
>> versions
>> as well)
>> the document has clearly labeled which engine parts are available from GM
>> auto dealers, ie not unique OMC/marine parts.
>> The water pump listed is the same as the auto version. Seems strange but
> in
>> the case of the Buick V6 it seems to be true.
>> Anyone else had experience replacing Buick V6 waterpumps on their OMC
>> 150/155hp engines?
>>
>> Paige, sounds like your V6 powertrain should be good to go this season.
> Hope
>> that snow melts soon!
>>
>> Lee
>>
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Paige" <windfallfarm@...>
>> To: <omc-boats@...>
>> Sent: Sunday, March 13, 2005 11:23 AM
>> Subject: Re: [omc-boats] Re: Water in the engine oil
>>
>>
>> > My 1969 Johnson Reveler Buick V6 155hp experienced an overhaul after a
>> > serious
>> > breakdown after years of poor service, bad winterization, and abuse. I
>> > experienced the oil/water concoction (greatly resembles brain grey
> matter)
>> > after
>> > blowing the head gasket and what I thought was one freeze plug that got
>> > blown.
>> > After the mechanic replaced the exhaust mainfolds and elbows, replaced
> the
>> > cylinder heads with reconditioned used ones, and one head gasket later,
>> > the poor
>> > old boat "shit the bed" the next season after the impeller fried. The
>> > impeller
>> > has been replaced with new o rings, key, and seals, new solonoids,
>> > thermostat,
>> > blower, and one new (expensive) tilt motor before winterizing last fall
>> > without
>> > running it on water. Now I have 3 feet of snow covering it so it
>> > should
>> > be a
>> > while before she sees water this spring. I will cross my fingers that
>> > most of
>> > the expensive replacements are over with. Unfortunately the water pump
>> > was
>> > replaced years ago with the automotive equivalent. So far there are no
>> > issues
>> > with this but I will be replacing it with the regulatory approved
>> > (expensive yet
>> > again) marine water pump. I tow this boat on a Shoreliner trailer with
>> > rollers
>> > (would rather it be pads) and she is a beast to haul, moreso to stop
>> > without
>> > trailer brakes. I would never be throwing money into a hole in the
> water
>> > but
>> > this boat in particular has a tremendous amount of sentimental value to
> me
>> > besides being an American relic. I would like to replace the verneer
>> > "Johnson
>> > Reveler" nameplate along the transom if anyone comes across one in good
>> > condition. After she is up and running good, I need to address the
>> > interior
>> > (original seats and flooring). Run first, look good later. Thanks,
> Paige
>> >
>> > LeeHazen@... wrote:
>> >
>> >> I have mentioined this previously I think - I have a l971 Johnson
> Surfer
>> >> 19'
>> >> runabout with the 307 Chevy 210 hp engine.
>> >>
>> >> The oil had water mixed with it and when I drained it, the oil was the
>> >> consistancy
>> >> of molassas.
>> >>
>> >> I suspect a bad intake manifold gasket as there is an Edelbrock intake
>> >> manifold on the engine rather than the chevy version.
>> >>
>> >> Has anyone else had this problem before ? The freeze plugs all look
> fine
>> >> and overall, the boat is in above average condition for its' age. The
>> >> boat
>> >> started up fine and idled smoothly right after I bought it 2 years
>> >> ago.
>> >>
>> >> I've just finished up putting a composite deck board floor in my 20'
>> >> pontoon
>> >> boat and once it is back in service, I plan to start on the Surfer.
>> >>
>> >> Any suggestions would be appreciated..
>> >>
>> >> Lee Hazen, Hendersonville, TN Old Hickory Lake
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2005 19:47:47 -0500
> From: "Andy Perakes" <aperakes@...>
> Subject: Re: [omc-boats] Tow Vehicles
>
> I typically use our Windstar, but have also used my Explorer, Escape,
> F-Series, and an old Lincoln Continental and Town Car. All have towed
> with
> relative ease, though I have to admit the Windstar surprised me and has
> been
> one of the best for towing, despite being FWD. Our trailer is a 1967
> TeeNee
> 1900 which was not the standard Johnson trailer. It had surge brakes, but
> they died a long time ago. Since it didn't have sealed axle bearings, I
> finally got sick of replacing them and replaced the whole axle -- EZ
> Loader
> Boat Trailers in Tullahoma, TN (1-800-562-0881 if it's still good) was
> willing to sell me just the axle (built to my specifications) and shipped
> it
> right to my door for a very reasonable price (don't remember how much, but
> I
> was very happy). Now, in addition to not having to replace wheel bearings
> every year, I once again have surge brakes and very little difficulty
> trailering.
>
> - ----- Original Message -----
> From: <lib1@...>
> To: <omc-boats@...>
> Sent: Sunday, March 13, 2005 5:19 PM
> Subject: [omc-boats] Tow Vehicles
>
>
>> Paige mentioned towing his 16-foot Johnson is a handful without brakes,
>> (assuming around 2400-2600 lbs for boat and trailer)
>>
>> That is a lot of extra stopping distance for most tow vehicles to cope
> with.
>>
>> 1) Just curious what members are using for tow vehicles, and
>>
>> 2) How many are using trailer brakes (which were optional on 16-ft'ers,
>> standard on the 19-ft'ers.)
>>
>> Lee
>>
>>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2005 21:15:26 -0500
> From: "Thomas Klauber" <tklauber@...>
> Subject: [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #249
>
> The motor is a 210 HP V8 with 307 ci with the original flat top mallory
> distributor and the standard points setup. I prefer the older "less
> reliable
> points" as I can fix those off shore if something happens. I carry a spare
> set of points and a feeler gauge and can do it out on the water (at least
> I
> hope I can having never done it in an emergency). I dont know about the
> electronic ignition and I want to keep it simple. I am willing to
> sacrifice
> whatever horsepower and or mileage you are supposed to get. I dont run
> races or at full speed often. As for oil in the gas (the proverbial
> molasses
> oil) - I had a water leak into the oil and took the engine out last winter
> and removed the intake and heads and decarboned them and left the
> crankshaft, pistons and oil pan alone. I really could find no damage due
> to
> the water but I wouldnt advise running it long like that. I spent a lot of
> time looking for cracks in the heads and what part of the cylinders I
> could
> see with turning the crank to lower each piston. I couldnt find the source
> of the leak and assumed it was in the intake to block gasket and
> reassembled
> it and had no leak. You should run a compression check and mine were a
> little off but I was having some valve maladjustment at that time so I was
> all confused about the compression readings. It is a simple fix to do the
> intake gasket with the motor in and forget the removing of the heads etc.
> I
> would run a compression check and pull the intake and get a magnifying
> glass and snoop aroung the channels maybe youll get lucky and find the
> problem - look closely at the head gaskets for signs of a blown head
> gasket
> which can lead to water in the oil - reassemble and change the oil after a
> short run. These motors are pretty bullet proof if taken reasonable care
> of.
> Good luck. TK PS - I put a fresh coat of paint on the stern drive today
> and
> hope to put it on this week and will be ready to go - with fingers crossed
> of course!
> - ----- Original Message -----
> From: "omc-boats-digest" <owner-omc-boats-digest@...>
> To: <omc-boats-digest@...>
> Sent: Sunday, March 13, 2005 12:00 PM
> Subject: omc-boats-digest V1 #249
>
>
>>
>> omc-boats-digest Sunday, March 13 2005 Volume 01 : Number
>> 249
>>
>>
>>
>> [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #248
>> Re: [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #248
>> Re: [omc-boats] Re: Water in the engine oil
>>
>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>> Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2005 08:51:07 -0500
>> From: "Thomas Klauber" <tklauber@...>
>> Subject: [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #248
>>
>> Lee, Thanks for your reply-I did it with the motor in but you have to
>> pull
>> the stern drive off. The year is 1969 and it is a 210 V8 Rogue. You are
>> right about the change in design in the early 70's. The whole
>> intermediate
>> shaft with ball gear and bearings lifts out fairly easy if not frozen in
>> the
>> housing. The bearings are not the tapered later type. They are a large
>> ball
>> bearing and a larger roller bearing with the roller bearing having the
>> inner pressed on race. The ball gears are like new as they were replaced
>> about 4 years ago by a mechanic and I haven't done much boating (
>> read -spending all his time fixing an old boat ) since. The splines were
>> in
>> good shape and there is a small "o" ring on the splines to prevent the
>> water
>> rust scenario.It is all coming together now and we should be more active.
>> It
>> is not leaking when I checked yesterday. I am dewinterizing this weekend
>> and
>> should be ready soon. The weather is turning nice so it won't be long. I
>> also bought a new set of ball gears from Sea Way and the intermediate
>> ball
>> gear is attached to the shaft and comes as an assembly. I will have them
>> ready down the road when needed. Have a good weekend. TK
>> - ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "omc-boats-digest" <owner-omc-boats-digest@...>
>> To: <omc-boats-digest@...>
>> Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2005 12:00 PM
>> Subject: omc-boats-digest V1 #248
>>
>>
>>>
>>> omc-boats-digest Saturday, March 12 2005 Volume 01 : Number
>>> 248
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> [omc-boats] ball gear int. housing
>>> Re: [omc-boats] ball gear int. housing
>>>
>>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>
>>> Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2005 22:57:22 -0500
>>> From: "Thomas Klauber" <tklauber@...>
>>> Subject: [omc-boats] ball gear int. housing
>>>
>>> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>>>
>>> - ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01C5268D.AF22B9E0
>>> Content-Type: text/plain;
>>> charset="Windows-1252"
>>> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>>>
>>> I finally did it. I could not stand the small oil drip at the ball gear
>>> =
>>> at the intermediate housing so I replaced the seal in the bearing =
>>> retainer. You pull the ball gear and shaft from the intermediate housing
>>> =
>>> and there is a small clip which you remove which allows you to remove 2
>>> =
>>> bearings from the shaft. You have a bearing inner race pressed on the =
>>> shaft that you have to remove prior to removing the bearing retainer. I
>>> =
>>> have a press and a press tool to remove the race which I did and it came
>>> =
>>> off easily. I slipped the bearing retainer off and replaced the seal. I
>>> =
>>> think the leak was from the seal. The rubber part of the seal looked =
>>> warped like it had been soaked in solvent and I speculate that the =
>>> previous mechanic that installed the replacement ball gear soaked the =
>>> parts in solvent prior to reassembly and didn't notice the bad seal - =
>>> anyway the seal presses out easily and the new one went in nicely. Put =
>>> the retainer back on the shaft and install the outer bearing race then =
>>> the 2 bearings and clip and you are done. Time will tell if I am =
>>> correct. Just thought I would pass this on. TK
>>> - ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01C5268D.AF22B9E0
>>> Content-Type: text/html;
>>> charset="Windows-1252"
>>> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>>>
>>> <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
>>> <HTML><HEAD>
>>> <META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
>>> charset=3Dwindows-1252">
>>> <META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2900.2604" name=3DGENERATOR>
>>> <STYLE></STYLE>
>>> </HEAD>
>>> <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
>>> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I finally did it. I could not stand the
>>> =
>>> small oil=20
>>> drip at the ball gear at the intermediate housing so I replaced the seal
>>> =
>>> in the=20
>>> bearing retainer. You pull the ball gear and shaft from the intermediate
>>> =
>>> housing=20
>>> and there is a small clip which you remove which allows you to remove 2
>>> =
>>> bearings=20
>>> from the shaft. You have a bearing inner race pressed on the shaft that
>>> =
>>> you have=20
>>> to remove prior to removing the bearing retainer. I have a press and a =
>>> press=20
>>> tool to remove the race which I did and it came off easily. I slipped =
>>> the=20
>>> bearing retainer off and replaced the seal. I think the leak was from =
>>> the seal.=20
>>> The rubber part of the seal looked warped like it had been soaked in =
>>> solvent and=20
>>> I speculate that the previous mechanic that installed the replacement =
>>> ball gear=20
>>> soaked the parts in solvent prior to reassembly and didn't notice the =
>>> bad seal -=20
>>> anyway the seal presses out easily and the new one went in nicely. Put =
>>> the=20
>>> retainer back on the shaft and install the outer bearing race then the 2
>>> =
>>>
>>> bearings and clip and you are done. Time will tell if I am correct. Just
>>> =
>>> thought=20
>>> I would pass this on. TK</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
>>>
>>> - ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01C5268D.AF22B9E0--
>>>
>>> ------------------------------
>>>
>>> Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2005 06:47:31 -0700
>>> From: <lib1@...>
>>> Subject: Re: [omc-boats] ball gear int. housing
>>>
>>> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>>>
>>> - ------=_NextPart_000_0167_01C526CF.5D268B20
>>> Content-Type: text/plain;
>>> charset="Windows-1252"
>>> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>>>
>>> Hi Tom,
>>>
>>> Great job, Tom! What year was this intermediate housing? I think in the
>>> =
>>> early seventies OMC changed the shaft bearing over to a tapered roller =
>>> bearing design. I've heard one major weakness is moisture getting inside
>>> =
>>> the housing and rust causing the shaft splines to weaken. When that =
>>> happens you get "instant neutral." That when you hope there's a friendly
>>> =
>>> boater nearby to tow you back in. So did you bite the bullet and do an =
>>> engine pull or were you able to do it with everything in place? (So =
>>> how's dumb I am!)
>>>
>>> How's the wear on the ball gears looking?=20
>>>
>>> Lee
>>>
>>> ----- Original Message -----=20
>>> From: Thomas Klauber=20
>>> To: omc-boats@...=20
>>> Sent: Friday, March 11, 2005 8:57 PM
>>> Subject: [omc-boats] ball gear int. housing
>>>
>>>
>>> I finally did it. I could not stand the small oil drip at the ball =
>>> gear at the intermediate housing so I replaced the seal in the bearing =
>>> retainer. You pull the ball gear and shaft from the intermediate housing
>>> =
>>> and there is a small clip which you remove which allows you to remove 2
>>> =
>>> bearings from the shaft. You have a bearing inner race pressed on the =
>>> shaft that you have to remove prior to removing the bearing retainer. I
>>> =
>>> have a press and a press tool to remove the race which I did and it came
>>> =
>>> off easily. I slipped the bearing retainer off and replaced the seal. I
>>> =
>>> think the leak was from the seal. The rubber part of the seal looked =
>>> warped like it had been soaked in solvent and I speculate that the =
>>> previous mechanic that installed the replacement ball gear soaked the =
>>> parts in solvent prior to reassembly and didn't notice the bad seal - =
>>> anyway the seal presses out easily and the new one went in nicely. Put =
>>> the retainer back on the shaft and install the outer bearing race then =
>>> the 2 bearings and clip and you are done. Time will tell if I am =
>>> correct. Just thought I would pass this on. TK
>>> - ------=_NextPart_000_0167_01C526CF.5D268B20
>>> Content-Type: text/html;
>>> charset="Windows-1252"
>>> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>>>
>>> <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
>>> <HTML><HEAD>
>>> <META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
>>> charset=3Dwindows-1252">
>>> <META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2900.2604" name=3DGENERATOR>
>>> <STYLE></STYLE>
>>> </HEAD>
>>> <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
>>> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hi Tom,</FONT></DIV>
>>> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
>>> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Great job, Tom! What year was =
>>> this=20
>>> intermediate housing? I think in the early seventies OMC changed the =
>>> shaft=20
>>> bearing over to a tapered roller bearing design. I've heard one major =
>>> weakness=20
>>> is moisture getting inside the housing and rust causing the shaft =
>>> splines to=20
>>> weaken. When that happens you get "instant neutral." That when you hope
>>> =
>>> there's=20
>>> a friendly boater nearby to tow you back in. So did you bite the bullet
>>> =
>>> and do=20
>>> an engine pull or were you able to do it with everything in place?
>>> =
>>> (So=20
>>> how's dumb I am!)</FONT></DIV>
>>> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
>>> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>How's the wear on the ball gears =
>>> looking?=20
>>> </FONT><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT></DIV>
>>> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
>>> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Lee</FONT></DIV>
>>> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
>>> <BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
>>> style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
>>> BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
>>> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
>>> <DIV=20
>>> style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
>>> black"><B>From:</B>=20
>>> <A title=3Dtklauber@... =
>>> href=3D"mailto:tklauber@...">Thomas=20
>>> Klauber</A> </DIV>
>>> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
>>> title=3Domc-boats@...=20
>>> href=3D"mailto:omc-boats@...">omc-boats@...</A> =
>>> </DIV>
>>> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, March 11, 2005 =
>>> 8:57=20
>>> PM</DIV>
>>> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [omc-boats] ball gear =
>>> int.=20
>>> housing</DIV>
>>> <DIV><BR></DIV>
>>> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I finally did it. I could not stand =
>>> the small oil=20
>>> drip at the ball gear at the intermediate housing so I replaced the =
>>> seal in=20
>>> the bearing retainer. You pull the ball gear and shaft from the =
>>> intermediate=20
>>> housing and there is a small clip which you remove which allows you to
>>> =
>>> remove=20
>>> 2 bearings from the shaft. You have a bearing inner race pressed on =
>>> the shaft=20
>>> that you have to remove prior to removing the bearing retainer. I have
>>> =
>>> a press=20
>>> and a press tool to remove the race which I did and it came off =
>>> easily. I=20
>>> slipped the bearing retainer off and replaced the seal. I think the =
>>> leak was=20
>>> from the seal. The rubber part of the seal looked warped like it had =
>>> been=20
>>> soaked in solvent and I speculate that the previous mechanic that =
>>> installed=20
>>> the replacement ball gear soaked the parts in solvent prior to =
>>> reassembly and=20
>>> didn't notice the bad seal - anyway the seal presses out easily and =
>>> the new=20
>>> one went in nicely. Put the retainer back on the shaft and install the
>>> =
>>> outer=20
>>> bearing race then the 2 bearings and clip and you are done. Time will =
>>> tell if=20
>>> I am correct. Just thought I would pass this on.=20
>>> TK</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
>>>
>>> - ------=_NextPart_000_0167_01C526CF.5D268B20--
>>>
>>> ------------------------------
>>>
>>> End of omc-boats-digest V1 #248
>>> *******************************
>>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2005 07:28:13 -0700
>> From: <lib1@...>
>> Subject: Re: [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #248
>>
>> That's cool that it was free enough to be extracted from the stern side
>> after taking off the drive unit.
>> I've head they some times won't dudge, which then means a motor pull to
>> drive it out from the input side.
>> So your 210 must be a Chevy 307? Does yours have the Mallory flatop
>> distributor or the GM-style?
>> Sounds like you'll be all set and ready to go. Never a bad idea to have
>> an
>> extra set of ball gears sitting around.
>>
>> Lee
>>
>> - ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Thomas Klauber" <tklauber@...>
>> To: <omc-boats-digest@...>
>> Sent: Sunday, March 13, 2005 6:51 AM
>> Subject: [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #248
>>
>>
>>> Lee, Thanks for your reply-I did it with the motor in but you have to
>>> pull
>>> the stern drive off. The year is 1969 and it is a 210 V8 Rogue. You are
>>> right about the change in design in the early 70's. The whole
>>> intermediate
>>> shaft with ball gear and bearings lifts out fairly easy if not frozen in
>>> the housing. The bearings are not the tapered later type. They are a
>>> large
>>> ball bearing and a larger roller bearing with the roller bearing having
>>> the inner pressed on race. The ball gears are like new as they were
>>> replaced about 4 years ago by a mechanic and I haven't done much boating
>>> ( read -spending all his time fixing an old boat ) since. The splines
>>> were
>>> in good shape and there is a small "o" ring on the splines to prevent
>>> the
>>> water rust scenario.It is all coming together now and we should be more
>>> active. It is not leaking when I checked yesterday. I am dewinterizing
>>> this weekend and should be ready soon. The weather is turning nice so it
>>> won't be long. I also bought a new set of ball gears from Sea Way and
>>> the
>>> intermediate ball gear is attached to the shaft and comes as an
>>> assembly.
>>> I will have them ready down the road when needed. Have a good weekend.
>>> TK
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> From: "omc-boats-digest" <owner-omc-boats-digest@...>
>>> To: <omc-boats-digest@...>
>>> Sent: Saturday, March 12, 2005 12:00 PM
>>> Subject: omc-boats-digest V1 #248
>>>
>>>
>>>>
>>>> omc-boats-digest Saturday, March 12 2005 Volume 01 : Number
>>>> 248
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> [omc-boats] ball gear int. housing
>>>> Re: [omc-boats] ball gear int. housing
>>>>
>>>> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>>
>>>> Date: Fri, 11 Mar 2005 22:57:22 -0500
>>>> From: "Thomas Klauber" <tklauber@...>
>>>> Subject: [omc-boats] ball gear int. housing
>>>>
>>>> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>>>>
>>>> - ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01C5268D.AF22B9E0
>>>> Content-Type: text/plain;
>>>> charset="Windows-1252"
>>>> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>>>>
>>>> I finally did it. I could not stand the small oil drip at the ball gear
>>>> =
>>>> at the intermediate housing so I replaced the seal in the bearing =
>>>> retainer. You pull the ball gear and shaft from the intermediate
>>>> housing
>>>> =
>>>> and there is a small clip which you remove which allows you to remove 2
>>>> =
>>>> bearings from the shaft. You have a bearing inner race pressed on the =
>>>> shaft that you have to remove prior to removing the bearing retainer. I
>>>> =
>>>> have a press and a press tool to remove the race which I did and it
>>>> came
>>>> =
>>>> off easily. I slipped the bearing retainer off and replaced the seal. I
>>>> =
>>>> think the leak was from the seal. The rubber part of the seal looked =
>>>> warped like it had been soaked in solvent and I speculate that the =
>>>> previous mechanic that installed the replacement ball gear soaked the =
>>>> parts in solvent prior to reassembly and didn't notice the bad seal - =
>>>> anyway the seal presses out easily and the new one went in nicely. Put
>>>> =
>>>> the retainer back on the shaft and install the outer bearing race then
>>>> =
>>>> the 2 bearings and clip and you are done. Time will tell if I am =
>>>> correct. Just thought I would pass this on. TK
>>>> - ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01C5268D.AF22B9E0
>>>> Content-Type: text/html;
>>>> charset="Windows-1252"
>>>> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>>>>
>>>> <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
>>>> <HTML><HEAD>
>>>> <META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
>>>> charset=3Dwindows-1252">
>>>> <META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2900.2604" name=3DGENERATOR>
>>>> <STYLE></STYLE>
>>>> </HEAD>
>>>> <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
>>>> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I finally did it. I could not stand
>>>> the
>>>> =
>>>> small oil=20
>>>> drip at the ball gear at the intermediate housing so I replaced the
>>>> seal
>>>> =
>>>> in the=20
>>>> bearing retainer. You pull the ball gear and shaft from the
>>>> intermediate
>>>> =
>>>> housing=20
>>>> and there is a small clip which you remove which allows you to remove 2
>>>> =
>>>> bearings=20
>>>> from the shaft. You have a bearing inner race pressed on the shaft that
>>>> =
>>>> you have=20
>>>> to remove prior to removing the bearing retainer. I have a press and a
>>>> =
>>>> press=20
>>>> tool to remove the race which I did and it came off easily. I slipped =
>>>> the=20
>>>> bearing retainer off and replaced the seal. I think the leak was from =
>>>> the seal.=20
>>>> The rubber part of the seal looked warped like it had been soaked in =
>>>> solvent and=20
>>>> I speculate that the previous mechanic that installed the replacement =
>>>> ball gear=20
>>>> soaked the parts in solvent prior to reassembly and didn't notice the =
>>>> bad seal -=20
>>>> anyway the seal presses out easily and the new one went in nicely. Put
>>>> =
>>>> the=20
>>>> retainer back on the shaft and install the outer bearing race then the
>>>> 2
>>>> =
>>>>
>>>> bearings and clip and you are done. Time will tell if I am correct.
>>>> Just
>>>> =
>>>> thought=20
>>>> I would pass this on. TK</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
>>>>
>>>> - ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01C5268D.AF22B9E0--
>>>>
>>>> ------------------------------
>>>>
>>>> Date: Sat, 12 Mar 2005 06:47:31 -0700
>>>> From: <lib1@...>
>>>> Subject: Re: [omc-boats] ball gear int. housing
>>>>
>>>> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>>>>
>>>> - ------=_NextPart_000_0167_01C526CF.5D268B20
>>>> Content-Type: text/plain;
>>>> charset="Windows-1252"
>>>> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>>>>
>>>> Hi Tom,
>>>>
>>>> Great job, Tom! What year was this intermediate housing? I think in
>>>> the
>>>> =
>>>> early seventies OMC changed the shaft bearing over to a tapered roller
>>>> =
>>>> bearing design. I've heard one major weakness is moisture getting
>>>> inside
>>>> =
>>>> the housing and rust causing the shaft splines to weaken. When that =
>>>> happens you get "instant neutral." That when you hope there's a
>>>> friendly
>>>> =
>>>> boater nearby to tow you back in. So did you bite the bullet and do an
>>>> =
>>>> engine pull or were you able to do it with everything in place? (So =
>>>> how's dumb I am!)
>>>>
>>>> How's the wear on the ball gears looking?=20
>>>>
>>>> Lee
>>>>
>>>> ----- Original Message -----=20
>>>> From: Thomas Klauber=20
>>>> To: omc-boats@...=20
>>>> Sent: Friday, March 11, 2005 8:57 PM
>>>> Subject: [omc-boats] ball gear int. housing
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I finally did it. I could not stand the small oil drip at the ball =
>>>> gear at the intermediate housing so I replaced the seal in the bearing
>>>> =
>>>> retainer. You pull the ball gear and shaft from the intermediate
>>>> housing
>>>> =
>>>> and there is a small clip which you remove which allows you to remove 2
>>>> =
>>>> bearings from the shaft. You have a bearing inner race pressed on the =
>>>> shaft that you have to remove prior to removing the bearing retainer. I
>>>> =
>>>> have a press and a press tool to remove the race which I did and it
>>>> came
>>>> =
>>>> off easily. I slipped the bearing retainer off and replaced the seal. I
>>>> =
>>>> think the leak was from the seal. The rubber part of the seal looked =
>>>> warped like it had been soaked in solvent and I speculate that the =
>>>> previous mechanic that installed the replacement ball gear soaked the =
>>>> parts in solvent prior to reassembly and didn't notice the bad seal - =
>>>> anyway the seal presses out easily and the new one went in nicely. Put
>>>> =
>>>> the retainer back on the shaft and install the outer bearing race then
>>>> =
>>>> the 2 bearings and clip and you are done. Time will tell if I am =
>>>> correct. Just thought I would pass this on. TK
>>>> - ------=_NextPart_000_0167_01C526CF.5D268B20
>>>> Content-Type: text/html;
>>>> charset="Windows-1252"
>>>> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>>>>
>>>> <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
>>>> <HTML><HEAD>
>>>> <META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
>>>> charset=3Dwindows-1252">
>>>> <META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2900.2604" name=3DGENERATOR>
>>>> <STYLE></STYLE>
>>>> </HEAD>
>>>> <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
>>>> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hi Tom,</FONT></DIV>
>>>> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
>>>> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Great job, Tom! What year was =
>>>> this=20
>>>> intermediate housing? I think in the early seventies OMC changed the =
>>>> shaft=20
>>>> bearing over to a tapered roller bearing design. I've heard one major =
>>>> weakness=20
>>>> is moisture getting inside the housing and rust causing the shaft =
>>>> splines to=20
>>>> weaken. When that happens you get "instant neutral." That when you hope
>>>> =
>>>> there's=20
>>>> a friendly boater nearby to tow you back in. So did you bite the bullet
>>>> =
>>>> and do=20
>>>> an engine pull or were you able to do it with everything in
>>>> place?
>>>> =
>>>> (So=20
>>>> how's dumb I am!)</FONT></DIV>
>>>> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
>>>> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>How's the wear on the ball gears =
>>>> looking?=20
>>>> </FONT><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT></DIV>
>>>> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
>>>> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Lee</FONT></DIV>
>>>> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
>>>> <BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
>>>> style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
>>>> BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
>>>> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
>>>> <DIV=20
>>>> style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
>>>> black"><B>From:</B>=20
>>>> <A title=3Dtklauber@... =
>>>> href=3D"mailto:tklauber@...">Thomas=20
>>>> Klauber</A> </DIV>
>>>> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
>>>> title=3Domc-boats@...=20
>>>> href=3D"mailto:omc-boats@...">omc-boats@...</A> =
>>>> </DIV>
>>>> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, March 11, 2005 =
>>>> 8:57=20
>>>> PM</DIV>
>>>> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> [omc-boats] ball gear
>>>> =
>>>> int.=20
>>>> housing</DIV>
>>>> <DIV><BR></DIV>
>>>> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I finally did it. I could not stand =
>>>> the small oil=20
>>>> drip at the ball gear at the intermediate housing so I replaced the =
>>>> seal in=20
>>>> the bearing retainer. You pull the ball gear and shaft from the =
>>>> intermediate=20
>>>> housing and there is a small clip which you remove which allows you to
>>>> =
>>>> remove=20
>>>> 2 bearings from the shaft. You have a bearing inner race pressed on =
>>>> the shaft=20
>>>> that you have to remove prior to removing the bearing retainer. I have
>>>> =
>>>> a press=20
>>>> and a press tool to remove the race which I did and it came off =
>>>> easily. I=20
>>>> slipped the bearing retainer off and replaced the seal. I think the =
>>>> leak was=20
>>>> from the seal. The rubber part of the seal looked warped like it had =
>>>> been=20
>>>> soaked in solvent and I speculate that the previous mechanic that =
>>>> installed=20
>>>> the replacement ball gear soaked the parts in solvent prior to =
>>>> reassembly and=20
>>>> didn't notice the bad seal - anyway the seal presses out easily and =
>>>> the new=20
>>>> one went in nicely. Put the retainer back on the shaft and install the
>>>> =
>>>> outer=20
>>>> bearing race then the 2 bearings and clip and you are done. Time will
>>>> =
>>>> tell if=20
>>>> I am correct. Just thought I would pass this on.=20
>>>> TK</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
>>>>
>>>> - ------=_NextPart_000_0167_01C526CF.5D268B20--
>>>>
>>>> ------------------------------
>>>>
>>>> End of omc-boats-digest V1 #248
>>>> *******************************
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2005 11:37:21 EST
>> From: LeeHazen@...
>> Subject: Re: [omc-boats] Re: Water in the engine oil
>>
>> I have mentioined this previously I think - I have a l971 Johnson Surfer
>> 19'
>> runabout with the 307 Chevy 210 hp engine.
>>
>> The oil had water mixed with it and when I drained it, the oil was the
>> consistancy
>> of molassas.
>>
>>I suspect a bad intake manifold gasket as there is an Edelbrock intake
>> manifold on the engine rather than the chevy version.
>>
>> Has anyone else had this problem before ? The freeze plugs all look fine
>> and overall, the boat is in above average condition for its' age. The
>> boat
>> started up fine and idled smoothly right after I bought it 2 years ago.
>>
>> I've just finished up putting a composite deck board floor in my 20'
>> pontoon
>> boat and once it is back in service, I plan to start on the Surfer.
>>
>> Any suggestions would be appreciated..
>>
>> Lee Hazen, Hendersonville, TN Old Hickory Lake
>>
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> End of omc-boats-digest V1 #249
>> *******************************
>>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2005 21:36:01 -0800
> From: "Scott Veazie" <scottveazie@...>
> Subject: Re: [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #249
>
> Well, after just getting everything done yesterday, I finally hit the
> river
> today and it was great. I had just finished stitching the bow and stern
> jump seats and installed the new back to back lounge seats, looks great!
> New carpet, polished out the Gelcoat, the old V6 is running great! We've
> been having unusually warm weather here in Washington (70 deg. today), so
> I
> couldn't miss out on this opportunity. Also, if anyone is interested, I
> have the part numbers for Oil Pressure and Water Temp senders for the
> optional Gauge type instruments offered by OMC. I installed the gauge and
> it works like a charm.
>
> ~Scott
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 13 Mar 2005 21:51:55 -0800
> From: "Scott Veazie" <scottveazie@...>
> Subject: Re: [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #249
>
> A few more things I forgot to mention: I tow my 1970 Seasport with
> original
> trailer with surge brakes with a 1970 Chevrolet 3/4 ton pickup. I have no
> problems towing there, just the gas guzzling! Also, I wanted to email
> Phil
> so I could post pics of my boat but I got some returned mail. Does anyone
> have the correct address for him?
>
> ~Scott
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Date: Mon, 14 Mar 2005 07:49:57 -0700
> From: <lib1@...>
> Subject: Re: [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #249
>
> Hi Scott,
>
> You can reach Phil Bunde at: phil@...
>
> Does you Chevy pickup use a 307 V8? Pretty neat that it's from the same
> exact year as the boat!
>
> Lee
>
> PS --It will be great to see some pictures....
>
>
> - ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Scott Veazie" <scottveazie@...>
> To: <omc-boats@...>
> Sent: Sunday, March 13, 2005 10:51 PM
> Subject: Re: [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #249
>
>
>>A few more things I forgot to mention: I tow my 1970 Seasport with
>>original trailer with surge brakes with a 1970 Chevrolet 3/4 ton pickup.
>>I
>>have no problems towing there, just the gas guzzling! Also, I wanted to
>>email Phil so I could post pics of my boat but I got some returned mail.
>>Does anyone have the correct address for him?
>>
>> ~Scott
>>
>>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> End of omc-boats-digest V1 #250
> *******************************
>
Received on Monday, 14 March 2005
This archive was generated by hypermail 2.2.0 : Tuesday, 29 July 2014 EDT