Re: [OMC-Boats] engine wierdness

From: Scott Veazie <scottveazie@...>
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2009 17:57:29 -0700

If I'm not mistaken you only need the Ballast resistor with a traditional ignition setup (points, condenser) but not with an electronic (Pertronix) setup?
 

Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2009 15:05:08 -0500
From: bchowk@...
To: omc-boats@...
Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] engine wierdness

That should be the Ballast resistor, Haven't ever had to mess with one,
 
Anyone out there know if the ballast resistor should be getting HOT?
 

Oct 30, 2009 12:33:32 PM, omc-boats@... wrote:

yeah, there is an external resistor - basically a big hunk of
porcelain that heats up (on mine). how do you tell if it's bad?
and if bad would that allow an engine even to start?

On Oct 30, 2009, at 12:08 PM, Kenneth Gullicksen wrote:

> My Sweet 16 is an outboard so I am not familiar with your motor but
> I have an old Glastron I/O that had an external resistor that went
> bad so that could be another possibility, if you have one.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: omc-boats-bounces@... [mailto:omc-boats-bounces@...s.ultimate.com
> ] On Behalf Of jd
> Sent: Friday, October 30, 2009 2:25 PM
> To: Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's
> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] engine wierdness
>
> i'm pretty sure I already have the petronix thing on my distributor
> (installed by someone previous). So in my case, I don't have any
> points or rotor and therefore not likely to be those things right?
>
> COIL - likely, plugs and wires, not likely because the entire
> engine is stalling out - not just one cylinder.
>
>
> what other electrical stuff operates while the engine is running and
> is essential to keeping the engine running?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Oct 30, 2009, at 9:27 AM, Lee Shuster wrote:
>
>> Don't assume anything until proven otherwise!
>> Troubleshoot one system at a time.
>>
>> (For my money, a new condenser, new points, a new rotor, a new cap,
>> new coil, and new HT (8mm) spark plug wires and new spark plugs, are
>> relatively cheap and easy replacements. In fact, if you aren't
>> particularly good with dwell/tach meters, get the Petronix
>> replacement
>> module and forgetaboutit (it being -- pesky ignition tune ups).
>>
>> From: omc-boats-bounces@...
>> [mailto:omc-boats-bounces@...
>> ] On Behalf Of ANDY PERAKES
>> Sent: Thursday, October 29, 2009 6:48 PM
>> To: Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's
>> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] engine wierdness
>>
>> I once had a crack in the rotor that would cause it to lose contact
>> at
>> different speed ranges so it can be almost anything. Sometimes
>> failures can be induced by vibration, sometimes by heat, sometimes
>> both or something completely different. As metal things like coils
>> and wires expand and contract as they heat and cool, it can cause
>> them
>> to make intermittent contact that can be maddening to diagnose. Fuel
>> could very well be a possibility too, things would indeed stop quick
>> if you suddenly injected an air/water mix instead of an air/fuel mix.
>> Best way to check that would probably be connecting to a remote tank,
>> but remember you'll still need to purge everything in the lines and
>> bowl. It helps a lot that it starts back up for you. Good luck!
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Scott Veazie" <scottveazie@...>
>> To: omc-boats@...
>> Sent: Thursday, October 29, 2009 4:05:40 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada
>> Eastern
>> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] engine wierdness
>>
>> Yup...no spark for the plugs. Also don't discount a bad condenser, I
>> had one leave me stranded.
>>
>>> From: jdood@...
>>> To: omc-boats@...
>>> Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2009 12:45:06 -0700
>>> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] engine wierdness
>>>
>>> yeah, maybe the coil - hope its something that easy. i guess that
>>> would do it wouldn't it? if i understand it all correctly, if the
>>> coil shuts down then no spark is being send to ANY of the plugs,
>>> right? which would make the engine completely die instantly.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Oct 29, 2009, at 10:41 AM, Scott Veazie wrote:
>>>
>>>> JD-
>>>>
>>>>> From my past experience, I would start with a new coil, then get
>>>> new points, condenser, cap, rotor, check all spark plugs and
>> wires.
>>>> Get all that ignition nonsense eliminated as a potential problem,
>>>> and then go from there. You probably won't have to replace your
>>>> dist. cap though.
>>>>
>>>> ~Scott
>>>>
>>>>> From: jdood@...
>>>>> To: omc-boats@...
>>>>> Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2009 10:00:31 -0700
>>>>> Subject: Re: [OMC-Boats] engine wierdness
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> i just don't see how it can be any kind of electrical system
>> thing,
>>>>> esp since i re-did most of the wiring this summer and it's now
>> very
>>>>> solid. but who knows. and what "electrical" stuff is happening
>>>>> with the engine while its running anyway?
>>>>>
>>>>> - one wire sends power to the starter when the key is turned -
>>>> that is
>>>>> working fine
>>>>>
>>>>> - there's a purple wire that runs to the electric choke (i
>> guess) on
>>>>> the carb - perhaps that?
>>>>>
>>>>> - there's theres a wire going to the coil and stuff - perhaps
>> that?
>>>>>
>>>>> - then there's the alternator - perhaps that?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> The last 3 on this list i don't really understand at all, esp
>> what
>>>>> their function is AFTER the engine is up and running. If
>>>>> electrical, it has to be something that functions not just to
>> start
>>>>> the engine, but to keep the engine running. Doesn't that just
>>>>> narrow it down to the alternator? Or is there other electrical
>> stuff
>>>>> that has to do with the engine staying running?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On Oct 29, 2009, at 9:02 AM, ANDY PERAKES wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> I tend to agree with the electrical suspect. Fuel/air problems
>>>>>> generally linger a bit and don't result in an immediate drop-
>> out
>>>>>> like you describe. Anything is possible though. I like the
>>>>>> guidance Lee sent out awhile back where he said to
>> eleiminate the
>>>>>> possibility of electrical problems first since that's usually
>>>>>> quicker and easier to do. Trouble is, intermittent electrical
>>>>>> problems can be a nightmare to trace. Is there any
>> possibility of
>>>>>> hooking up some basic instrumentation to see if there is any
>>>>>> electrical effect when it happens? If you see a sudden voltage
>>>>>> change or current drop out, that would be a clear indicator.
>> Good
>>>>>> luck!
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Andy
>>>>>> '67 Reveler
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>>>> From: "jd" <jdood@...>
>>>>>> To: "Evinrude & Johnson Boats of the 1960's and 70's"
>>>>>> <omc-boats@...
>>>>>>>
>>>>>> Sent: Thursday, October 29, 2009 11:44:16 AM GMT -05:00 US/
>> Canada
>>>>>> Eastern
>>>>>> Subject: [OMC-Boats] engine wierdness
>>>>>>
>>>>>> took my boat out for the last of possible testing this season
>>>> before
>>>>>> things get too cold and rainy. didn't go as i hoped. i'll try
>>>>>> and condense this down to it's simplest form:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> BEFORE (about a month ago):
>>>>>>
>>>>>> except for some slightly fast idling, engine ran well. Then I
>>>>>> noticed it starting to do this weird intermittent thing where
>>>> all the
>>>>>> power (throttle) would just drop down to zero. It seemed to
>> happen
>>>>>> mainly during acceleration up to plane. This all was
>> happening at
>>>>>> the end of the season, so I have pretty much had the boat
>>>> sitting for
>>>>>> the past month waiting for parts and time. But I was
>> thinking it
>>>> was
>>>>>> related to my falling apart carb and / or and electrical thing
>>>>>> related to my rebuilt shifter switch. so......
>>>>>>
>>>>>> AFTER (yesterday):
>>>>>>
>>>>>> - I installed my nice practically new carb (rebuilt by flying
>>>> fish).
>>>>>> keep in mind, it was the exact same carb i have always had
>> on the
>>>>>> boat, just completely rebuilt. I also changed my air water
>>>> separator
>>>>>> cartridge beforehand to avoid any chance of issues from fuel
>>>> that had
>>>>>> sat for a month.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> - I installed a NOS shifter switch that I recently acquired.
>>>> Tested
>>>>>> with light after install, everything checked out. And as I
>> said,
>>>>>> it's basically new.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> So after those two major upgrades, the engine is doing the
>> same
>>>> dang
>>>>>> thing. Started up, let it warm up a bit, took it for a spin.
>>>>>> About 5-10 seconds after getting up on that first plane
>> everything
>>>>>> just dropped down to zero and unlike the past times, this
>> time the
>>>>>> engine died at the same time. Had to crank it over several
>> times
>>>>>> for it to start back up, and when it did, with the red lever
>> set
>>>> at
>>>>>> full throttle it took several seconds for the RPMS to climb
>> up to
>>>>>> where they should be. I limped back to the dock.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Then while at the dock idling for a few minutes, all of the
>> sudden
>>>>>> it just died again. At idle this time, not while accelerating.
>>>>>> And every time it dies it is quick. It's not like it sits
>> there
>>>> and
>>>>>> slowly dies. It just cuts out suddenly. So I of course tried
>> to
>>>>>> restart it. Nothing for several tries, then it acted like it
>> was
>>>>>> going to start, then it finally starts, coughing and
>> sputtering a
>>>>>> bit, then very slowly climbs up to full throttle (in neutral).
>>>>>> I started thinking maybe a fuel pump issue. Disconnected fuel
>>>>>> line, cranked engine, plenty of pumping of fuel happening.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> It seems sort of electrical in the way it just all of the
>> sudden
>>>> dies
>>>>>> either at idle or accelerating. Yet when it finally starts
>> back
>>>> up it
>>>>>> coughs and sputters and smokes a bit. Which sounds like bad
>> fuel,
>>>>>> yet I have a new water/fuel separator cartridge, the carb is
>> new,
>>>>>> and nothing looks dirty with the inline regular fuel filter.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Any ideas?
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
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Received on Friday, 30 October 2009

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