I think the advertising gurus took poetic license with the flotation value.
----- Original Message -----
From: <lib1@...>
To: <omc-boats@...>
Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2005 2:32 PM
Subject: Re: [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #367
> Hi,
>
> I've found all of your comments on re-foaming interesting. And thought I'd
> send along some original Evinrude statements about the manufacturing
> process:
>
> Last night I sent some scans (which apparently are too large for the mail
> list server) of the original Evinrude construction process.
>
> Here's what the paragraph said of the original construction and foaming
> process:
>
> "Rigid, closed-cell polyurethane floatation (equivalent to 73 life
> preservers) provides additional structual strength. Foaming is done under
> 250,000 lbs of pressure. Closed dies lock the hull in a steel embrace
> during the foaming operation."
>
> "Special foaming machines produce high-pressure foam twice as dense and
> far stronger than poured-in foam. It can't "work" or develop voids; won't
> absorb moisture, shrink. or pull away from the hull regardless of
> temperature or operating conditions."
>
> If you do the simple math that one live preserver could support an adult
> weighing 170 pounds x 73 then that equals roughly 12,410 lbs of
> floatation.
>
> I think Evinrude was more than meeting the floatation standards of BIA or
> whoever it was reasponsible for setting such standards..
>
> Lee
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Glenn Halweg" <glennhalweg@...>
> To: <omc-boats@...>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2005 7:17 AM
> Subject: Re: [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #367
>
>
>> Thanks for the info Dave sounds like the easiest way to go. I just read
>> an article that states you only need enough buoyancy to float the metal
>> and miscellaneous parts of the boat as fiberglass floats.
>>
>> A cubic foot of foam will float about 60 pounds of "dead weight". The
>> wood parts of your boat will probably float, so you don't need flotation
>> foam to offset that weight. The fiberglass parts of your boat will
>> barely sink, so you really don't need much foam to offset the fiberglass-
>> maybe one cubic foot of foam per two hundred pounds (or more) of
>> fiberglass hull. The metal parts of your boat are what you really need
>> to account for.
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "jdhanson" <jdhanson@...>
>> To: <omc-boats@...>
>> Sent: Wednesday, August 24, 2005 4:25 AM
>> Subject: Re: [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #367
>>
>>
>>> Hey Glen,
>>> I went about re-foaming the same way Mike did. However, instead of
>>> using the pour in type foam. I used "Versi- Foam Systems" foam it is
>>> the type of foam with a two part mixing nozzle on it. Here is a link
>>> for some info.
>>> www.rhhfoamsystems.com/literature/mfb-1/index.html After I re-glassing
>>> the seems and edges on the new floor. I drilled little holes every
>>> foot. Just big enough for the mixing nozzle tip to fit in them. I
>>> worked my way from the back of each of the three channels toward the bow
>>> of the boat filling each hole until the foam was shooting out of the
>>> hole in front of that hole. Doing it this way I was able to fill every
>>> space and put the floor back exactly how it was. The real good thing
>>> about using the mixing nozzle was that you did not have to stop and
>>> remix more foam. The foaming part its self was the easiest and fastest
>>> part of the rebuild. I'm not sure exactly how much foam is used in your
>>> boat. My boat is the sport 16. It took about 29 cubic feet of foam!
>>> Well I hope this info helps.... Dave H
>>>
>>>
>>> On Aug 23, 2005, at 7:29 AM, Glenn Halweg wrote:
>>>
>>>> Thanks for the info! That's the same place Tom Klauber bought his. How
>>>> much did you use for your boat? Was 9.5 cubic feet enough, that's the
>>>> smallest size they offer. Would almost seem like to much.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Masters, Michael"
>>>> <mmasters@...>
>>>> To: <omc-boats@...>
>>>> Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2005 9:21 AM
>>>> Subject: RE: [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #367
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> I believe it was Fibre Glast in Ohio. Very quick service from them
>>>>> but I'm
>>>>> in Buffalo so not very far to ship.
>>>>>
>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>> From: owner-omc-boats@...
>>>>> [mailto:owner-omc-boats@...] On
>>>>> Behalf Of Glenn Halweg
>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2005 10:15 AM
>>>>> To: omc-boats@...
>>>>> Subject: Re: [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #367
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Mike, where did you get the foam?
>>>>>
>>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>>> From: "Masters, Michael" <mmasters@...>
>>>>> To: <omc-boats@...>
>>>>> Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2005 9:08 AM
>>>>> Subject: RE: [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #367
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> I went the other way on the re-foaming. I have a 1966 17' OMC Dual
>>>>>> Deluxe.
>>>>>> The foam was saturated and wouldn't dry so I removed everything down
>>>>>> to
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> hull. Then I built a new floor, resined the seams and edges, and
>>>>>> drilled
>>>>>> holes to pour in 2 part foam. It filled the hull and raised the
>>>>>> floor.
>>>>>> Very
>>>>>> solid and firm. Just wanted you to know that either method can work
>>>>>> and
>>>>>> that
>>>>>> it can be very exciting working with 2 part foam.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Mike
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>>>> From: owner-omc-boats@...
>>>>>> [mailto:owner-omc-boats@...]
>>>>>> On
>>>>>> Behalf Of Thomas Klauber
>>>>>> Sent: Monday, August 22, 2005 9:00 PM
>>>>>> To: omc-boats-digest@...
>>>>>> Subject: [omc-boats] Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #367
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I guess I didn't proof the text well enough! You need to make sure
>>>>>> you
>>>>>> don't
>>>>>> over foam the hull as you will have to sand a lot of foam to get the
>>>>>> floor
>>>>>> back to the right level so the sides will fit back into place. You
>>>>>> will
>>>>>> become aware of this as you take things apart. I pulled the floor
>>>>>> out and
>>>>>> saved as much as I could to use as a template to cut the new plywood.
>>>>>> Measure everything. Look at everything like seams and where the T
>>>>>> nuts are
>>>>>> placed - you need to measure their location so the seats will go
>>>>>> back in
>>>>>> proper position or otherwise you can mount the seats with wood
>>>>>> screws.
>>>>>> Don't
>>>>>> screw them through the bottom! There will be a ghost edge at the
>>>>>> floor and
>>>>>> you don't want to fill above that level. You can leave 2-3 inches of
>>>>>> the
>>>>>> original foam at the edges to act as a ledge or level to know the
>>>>>> height
>>>>>> you
>>>>>> need to refill. I think the factory put the floor in first and then
>>>>>> injected
>>>>>> the foam which expanded to fit the cavity. I did the reverse. I
>>>>>> would pour
>>>>>
>>>>>> a
>>>>>> small amount of foam and put plastic sheet and a board on top so the
>>>>>> foam
>>>>>> would expand just to the height I wanted. Remove the sheet which
>>>>>> will not
>>>>>> stick to the foam and do another section next to it.You figure it
>>>>>> out as
>>>>>> you
>>>>>> go. The foam is a 2 part mixture you mix and pour and it expands
>>>>>> rapidly
>>>>>> and
>>>>>> with some force. It is cured say in 5 minutes. I wanted my floor to
>>>>>> be as
>>>>>> close to original so I didn't have to re-engineer things. The whole
>>>>>> project
>>>>>> took months as I am slow but the end result is perfect. I used
>>>>>> regular
>>>>>> plywood and common fiberglass materials. I used materials from a
>>>>>> company
>>>>>> called Fibre Glast - they do a nice business on line and ship fast.
>>>>>> You
>>>>>> want
>>>>>> to use fresh materials. Let me know if this helps or if you need more
>>>>>> info.
>>>>>> I could spend hours on this subject. TK
>>>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>>>> From: "omc-boats-digest" <owner-omc-boats-digest@...>
>>>>>> To: <omc-boats-digest@...>
>>>>>> Sent: Monday, August 22, 2005 12:00 PM
>>>>>> Subject: omc-boats-digest V1 #367
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> omc-boats-digest Monday, August 22 2005 Volume 01 :
>>>>>>> Number
>>>>>>> 367
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> [omc-boats] 69 Rogue Hull
>>>>>>> Re: [omc-boats] 69 Rogue Hull
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> --------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>>>>> --
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2005 08:08:00 -0400
>>>>>>> From: "Thomas Klauber" <tklauber@...>
>>>>>>> Subject: [omc-boats] 69 Rogue Hull
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> - ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C5A6F0.9D1925C0
>>>>>>> Content-Type: text/plain;
>>>>>>> charset="Windows-1252"
>>>>>>> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I redid the floor in my 69 Rogue about 3 years ago. The entire hull
>>>>>>> is
>>>>>>> = filled with foam. There are 2 longitudinal stringers and one gray
>>>>>>> PVC = pipe connecting the front "bilge" area to the rear bilge. I
>>>>>>> used
>>>>>>> a large = Forstner drill bit to remove the foam. Some of it had
>>>>>>> gotten
>>>>>>> = waterlogged. The stringers go from front to rear.They are not
>>>>>>> visible = and are sheathed in fiberglass mat. They are anchored to
>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>> fiberglass = hull with fiberglass. Their main purpose I think is to
>>>>>>> provide rigidity = to the hull and more important they are where the
>>>>>>> engine mounts are = supported under the engine compartment deck. The
>>>>>>> fiberglass floor you = see in the engine compartment is over foam
>>>>>>> and
>>>>>>> is a separate piece and = is glassed in at the edges - I did not
>>>>>>> touch
>>>>>>> it. The floor surface is = plywood covered with fiberglass. There
>>>>>>> are
>>>>>>> screws going through the = floor to the stringers. The seats mount
>>>>>>> to
>>>>>>> "T" nuts in the reverse side = of the plywood. The foam is easy to
>>>>>>> get
>>>>>>> out really. It is a 2 part = polyurethane foam. Rebuilding is the
>>>>>>> hard
>>>>>>> part and really quite simple = but you need to take as many
>>>>>>> measurements/photos before you start and = during the disassembly so
>>>>>>> things will fit back together. Dimensions at = the rear hatch and
>>>>>>> side
>>>>>>> panels are tight and you don't want to make many = mistakes. The
>>>>>>> wood
>>>>>>> surrounding my front bilge had rotted and that's what = go me
>>>>>>> started.
>>>>>>> Email if you need further instructions. Tom
>>>>>>> - ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C5A6F0.9D1925C0
>>>>>>> Content-Type: text/html;
>>>>>>> charset="Windows-1252"
>>>>>>> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
>>>>>>> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
>>>>>>> charset=3Dwindows-1252"> <META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2900.2722"
>>>>>>> name=3DGENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
>>>>>>> <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I redid the floor in my 69 Rogue
>>>>>>> about =
>>>>>>> 3 years ago.=20
>>>>>>> The entire hull is filled with foam. There are 2 longitudinal
>>>>>>> stringers = and one=20 gray PVC pipe connecting the front "bilge"
>>>>>>> area
>>>>>>> to the rear bilge. I = used a=20 large Forstner drill bit to remove
>>>>>>> the foam. Some of it had gotten = waterlogged.=20 The stringers go
>>>>>>> from front to rear.They are not visible and=20
>>>>>>> are sheathed
>>>>>>> in fiberglass mat. They are anchored to = the fiberglass=20
>>>>>>> hull
>>>>>>> with fiberglass.</FONT><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2> Their main
>>>>>>> =
>>>>>>> purpose I=20 think is to provide rigidity to the hull and more
>>>>>>> important they are = where the=20 engine mounts are supported under
>>>>>>> the engine compartment deck. The = fiberglass=20 floor you see in
>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>> engine compartment is over foam and is a = separate=20 piece
>>>>>>> and
>>>>>>> is glassed in at the edges - I did not touch it. The floor = surface
>>>>>>> is=20 plywood covered with fiberglass. There are screws going
>>>>>>> through
>>>>>>> the = floor to the=20 stringers. The seats mount to "T" nuts in the
>>>>>>> reverse side of the = plywood. The=20 foam is easy to get out
>>>>>>> really.
>>>>>>> It is a 2 part polyurethane foam. = Rebuilding is=20 the hard part
>>>>>>> and
>>>>>>> really quite simple but you need to take as many=20
>>>>>>> measurements/photos before you start and during the disassembly
>>>>>>> so = things=20 will fit back together. Dimensions at the rear hatch
>>>>>>> and side panels are = tight=20 and you don't want to make many
>>>>>>> mistakes. The wood surrounding my front = bilge=20 had rotted and
>>>>>>> that's what go me started. Email if you need further=20
>>>>>>> instructions.
>>>>>>> Tom</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> - ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01C5A6F0.9D1925C0--
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> - -----
>>>>>>> To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> ------------------------------
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2005 07:24:06 -0500
>>>>>>> From: "Glenn Halweg" <glennhalweg@...>
>>>>>>> Subject: Re: [omc-boats] 69 Rogue Hull
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> - ------=_NextPart_000_0027_01C5A6EA.7AB3F7E0
>>>>>>> Content-Type: text/plain;
>>>>>>> charset="Windows-1252"
>>>>>>> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Tom, you say rebuilding is the hard part and really quite simple.
>>>>>>> What's = involved?=20
>>>>>>> ----- Original Message -----=20
>>>>>>> From: Thomas Klauber=20
>>>>>>> To: omc-boats-digest@...=20
>>>>>>> Sent: Monday, August 22, 2005 7:08 AM
>>>>>>> Subject: [omc-boats] 69 Rogue Hull
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I redid the floor in my 69 Rogue about 3 years ago. The entire hull
>>>>>>> is = filled with foam. There are 2 longitudinal stringers and one
>>>>>>> gray
>>>>>>> PVC = pipe connecting the front "bilge" area to the rear bilge. I
>>>>>>> used
>>>>>>> a large = Forstner drill bit to remove the foam. Some of it had
>>>>>>> gotten
>>>>>>> = waterlogged. The stringers go from front to rear.They are not
>>>>>>> visible = and are sheathed in fiberglass mat. They are anchored to
>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>> fiberglass = hull with fiberglass. Their main purpose I think is to
>>>>>>> provide rigidity = to the hull and more important they are where the
>>>>>>> engine mounts are = supported under the engine compartment deck. The
>>>>>>> fiberglass floor you = see in the engine compartment is over foam
>>>>>>> and
>>>>>>> is a separate piece and = is glassed in at the edges - I did not
>>>>>>> touch
>>>>>>> it. The floor surface is = plywood covered with fiberglass. There
>>>>>>> are
>>>>>>> screws going through the = floor to the stringers. The seats mount
>>>>>>> to
>>>>>>> "T" nuts in the reverse side = of the plywood. The foam is easy to
>>>>>>> get
>>>>>>> out really. It is a 2 part = polyurethane foam. Rebuilding is the
>>>>>>> hard
>>>>>>> part and really quite simple = but you need to take as many
>>>>>>> measurements/photos before you start and = during the disassembly so
>>>>>>> things will fit back together. Dimensions at = the rear hatch and
>>>>>>> side
>>>>>>> panels are tight and you don't want to make many = mistakes. The
>>>>>>> wood
>>>>>>> surrounding my front bilge had rotted and that's what = go me
>>>>>>> started.
>>>>>>> Email if you need further instructions. Tom
>>>>>>> - ------=_NextPart_000_0027_01C5A6EA.7AB3F7E0
>>>>>>> Content-Type: text/html;
>>>>>>> charset="Windows-1252"
>>>>>>> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
>>>>>>> <HTML><HEAD> <META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
>>>>>>> charset=3Dwindows-1252"> <META content=3D"MSHTML 6.00.2900.2722"
>>>>>>> name=3DGENERATOR> <STYLE></STYLE> </HEAD> <BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
>>>>>>> <DIV>Tom, you say rebuilding is the hard part and really quite
>>>>>>> =
>>>>>>> simple.=20 What's involved? </DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE dir=3Dltr=20
>>>>>>> style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
>>>>>>> BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV
>>>>>>> style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
>>>>>>> <DIV=20
>>>>>>> style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
>>>>>>> black"><B>From:</B>=20 <A title=3Dtklauber@... =
>>>>>>> href=3D"mailto:tklauber@...">Thomas=20
>>>>>>> Klauber</A> </DIV>
>>>>>>> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A=20
>>>>>>> title=3Domc-boats-digest@...=20
>>>>>>> =
>>>>>>> href=3D"mailto:omc-boats-digest@...">omc-boats-
>>>>>>> digest@...
>>>>>>> e.c=
>>>>>>> om</A>=20
>>>>>>> </DIV>
>>>>>>> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Monday, August 22,
>>>>>>> 2005
>>>>>>> = 7:08=20 AM</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B>
>>>>>>> [omc-boats] 69 Rogue = Hull</DIV> <DIV><BR></DIV> <DIV><FONT
>>>>>>> face=3DArial size=3D2>I redid the floor in my 69 Rogue = about 3
>>>>>>> years=20 ago. The entire hull is filled with foam. There are 2
>>>>>>> longitudinal = stringers=20 and one gray PVC pipe connecting the
>>>>>>> front "bilge" area to the rear = bilge. I=20 used a large Forstner
>>>>>>> drill bit to remove the foam. Some of it had = gotten=20
>>>>>>> waterlogged.
>>>>>>> The stringers go from front to rear.They are not = visible
>>>>>>> and=20
>>>>>>> are sheathed in fiberglass mat. They are anchored to =
>>>>>>> the fiberglass=20 hull with fiberglass.</FONT><FONT
>>>>>>> face=3DArial
>>>>>>> size=3D2> Their = main purpose I=20 think is to provide
>>>>>>> rigidity
>>>>>>> to the hull and more important they are = where the=20 engine
>>>>>>> mounts
>>>>>>> are supported under the engine compartment deck. The = fiberglass=20
>>>>>>> floor you see in the engine compartment is over foam and is a
>>>>>>> =
>>>>>>> separate=20 piece and is glassed in at the edges - I did not touch
>>>>>>> it. The floor = surface=20 is plywood covered with fiberglass.
>>>>>>> There
>>>>>>> are screws going through the = floor=20 to the stringers. The seats
>>>>>>> mount to "T" nuts in the reverse side of = the=20 plywood. The foam
>>>>>>> is easy to get out really. It is a 2 part = polyurethane foam.=20
>>>>>>> Rebuilding is the hard part and really quite simple but you need to
>>>>>>> =
>>>>>>> take as=20 many measurements/photos before you start and
>>>>>>> during
>>>>>>> the = disassembly so=20 things will fit back together. Dimensions
>>>>>>> at
>>>>>>> the rear hatch and side = panels=20 are tight and you don't want to
>>>>>>> make many mistakes. The wood = surrounding my=20 front bilge had
>>>>>>> rotted and that's what go me started. Email if you = need=20 further
>>>>>>> instructions. Tom</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> - ------=_NextPart_000_0027_01C5A6EA.7AB3F7E0--
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> - -----
>>>>>>> To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> ------------------------------
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> End of omc-boats-digest V1 #367
>>>>>>> *******************************
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> -----
>>>>>>> To get off this list send mail to
>>>>>>> omc-boats-digest-unsubscribe@...
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> -----
>>>>>> To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
>>>>>> -----
>>>>>> To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
>>>>>
>>>>> -----
>>>>> To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
>>>>> -----
>>>>> To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
>>>>
>>>> -----
>>>> To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
>>>>
>>>
>>> -----
>>> To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
>>
>> -----
>> To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
>>
>>
>
>
> -----
> To get off this list send mail to omc-boats-unsubscribe@...
-----
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Received on Wednesday, 24 August 2005
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