Re: [OMC-Boats] OMC Stringer Tilt Motor Shaft Removal?

On Fri, 22 Jul 2011, Gruber, Joe (DG-SAC) wrote:
> I have a 1975 Ford 302 w/ OMC stern drive.  In process of replacing
> rusted tilt motor after I verified electrical is all good including
> clutch and other mechanical.  However; I noticed replacing the tilt motor
> that the shaft end needs work and should be removed for machining.  Do
> you know how the tilt motor shaft is removed?
> I have removed the tilt motor, spring coupler, sector gear and clutch
> pack.  I believe all that is left to remove end cap under c-clip and
> brass ring gear?  Any advice for removing tilt motor shaft is appreciated
> before I reach for the hammer?

I don't have the manual in front of me, but I'd had it all apart this year
and I recall it being pretty straight-forward. The shaft is in two parts,
separated by the hammer-blow coupling. The outer portion can be removed
without disassembling the inner section or hammer-blow coupling. I've
never had both sides apart at once - I've always disassembled one side or
the other and then reinstalled it with the other side untouched.

The outer section comes out from the outside of the boat. Take out the
snap ring holding the brass plug in place. There's a brass cap that holds
the shaft in place - it is ejected by rotating the assembly to force the
shaft out. I can't remember if you it's suggested to do this by hand or if
you're supposed to do it mechanically... Since you have the inner shaft
disassembled, I'd try it by hand - reinstall the clutch pack, spur gear,
and cover, then rotate the spur gear (using a strap wrench, pliers
(carefully), or a wrench if you've got wrenching flats on your spur gear (I
believe they were added in '73 or so, but maybe only for replacement gears)
to make the shaft move out and force the cap off. You might have to shock
load it a few times, but the cap usually pops out pretty easily. If this
doesn't work, then you may have to reinstall the motor and everything
(including the sector gear) and hit the tilt button a few times to hammer
the endcap out. Make sure somebody's there to catch the parts... I
believe the instructions for doing this are in the Seloc manual, though
perhaps I saw them in the dealer service manual. Once the cap is out, you
can remove the clutch again and pull the shaft out by hand using a
needle-nose pliers.

All these parts are fairly cheap to replace. A new shaft is $17 from
boats.net. Roll pins are $2 or so. Look at your worm gear and see if has
holes for two roll pins or only one. The replacement shafts come with two
holes and I believe the newer worm gears do as well. In 1970 at least,
there was only one pin and it was somewhat prone to shearing. So use two
pins if you worm gear is compatible, even though it will complicate
reassemble a little. I chose to stay with one roll pin, as a replacement
worm gear was $100. Note that you should use a good roll pin punch to
install the pin - otherwise you will probably damage it and have it fail
again a year later (that's what happened to me the first time). Sears has
a six-piece roll pin punch set for $20 that I've been really happy with.
The gaskets, washers, o-rings, and c-clips can also be had from boats.net
fairly reasonably (though the retaining ring is $10 - outrageous! - I keep
meaning to check if it's a standard size). All parts are listed in the
catalog at epc.brp.com.

I assume you've already got the inner shaft out, since you're talking about
having the hammer-blow coupling disassembled already. If not, I think that
just comes out with a needle-nose pliers.

Ethan Brodsky

-- 
<a href="http://homepages.cae.wisc.edu/~brodskye/"> Ethan Brodsky </a>