Re: omc-boats-digest V1 #159

From: Thomas Klauber <tklauber@...>
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 22:49:42 -0400

Sounds like you had the foot in the water deep enough for circulation. You
could have malfunction in the waterpump at the front of the engine or the
water pump in the foot. You should not run the motor long or really at all
without water circulation. It could be a blockage in the water channels like
at the thermostat housing. You really should get a SELOC repair manual to
help you through this part and they can be found on ebay. They are still in
print and can be found elsewhere too. They describe tests to determine
sufficient flow through the engine. Basically you remove hoses and time how
long it takes to fill a bucket - they describe better than I. Any new or
old boat is a continuous challenge so don't get discouraged! Good luck. TK
----- Original Message -----
From: "omc-boats-digest" <owner-omc-boats-digest@...>
To: <omc-boats-digest@...>
Sent: Monday, June 07, 2004 12:00 PM
Subject: omc-boats-digest V1 #159

>
> omc-boats-digest Monday, June 7 2004 Volume 01 : Number
159
>
>
>
> Re: 1966 Evinrude
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2004 18:02:56 -0700 (PDT)
> From: Jared Bourquin <jaredbourquin97@...>
> Subject: Re: 1966 Evinrude
>
> Lee,
>
> Things are coming along with the boat. I actually
> bought it regionally off of ebay. We bought it from an
> older couple who had let it sit for 5 or 6 years and
> they had bought it from a older widow down in texas
> who had it sitting for who knows how long. I needed a
> project for the summer and my wife loves the water so
> we want to get it in the water sometime mid summer.
>
> Thanks for the advice it has given my some piece of
> mind on where to go with the project next. We
> actually got it to fire up friday night. Had to
> replace the coil and points and condenser to get
> spark. But once we got that in it was ready to go. I
> was surprised it fired up so quickly but with a little
> adjusting on the carb and the points it should run
> smoothly. We did run into one problem. It wasn't
> picking up any water. We set the prop in a large
> bucket and filled it up to cover the intake screen at
> the bottom of the prop, but it wouldn't pull any
> water. Does the prop need to be submerged a certain
> depth in order for it to pickup water? Are you
> running it out of the water? If you are how are you
> circulating water through the engine? We're solving
> one problem and running into another everytime we make
> a step, but this should be one of the last ones.
> Should be ready for a test run once we get the carb
> running smoothly and get the prop to pickup water.
>
> The workshop book that I have doesn't help because it
> is to general, need a workshop manual specifically for
> this boat.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jared
> - --- lib1@... wrote:
> > Hi Jared,
> >
> > I'm replying off-list and would appreciate if you to
> > same to me.
> >
> > I also have a 66 Sportsman 150. They are worth
> > fixing up, IMHO.
> > Just curious where and how did you come across your
> > boat?
> >
> > Here's some things I found out in recently restoring
> > my 66 Sporstman.
> >
> > > I want to put in some
> > > replacement carpet but have a few questions that I
> > > though you guys could help me with.
> >
> > I glued in new marine carpet. The original carpets
> > were not glued in and
> > they tend to shift around causing them to wear out.
> > I also used the same
> > carpet on the bow seat and on the sides and on the
> > fuel tank cover. See:
> > http://hhscott.com/evinrude/interior.htm
> > Click on image to zoom in
> >
> > >The webbing under the seat i'm going
> > > to replace by weaving vinyl twine under the seat.
> >
> > You can get the webbing any where they sell patio
> > furniture, its the same
> > stuff. I used plywood bottoms to make it so you can
> > setp onto the seats
> > without jumping thru. The special cast seat mounts
> > are virtually impossible
> > to find. Both the circular aluminium floor discs and
> > the cast seat mounts,
> > as well as the retaining pins. Most people throw
> > away the original seats but
> > I think they were a great part of the original
> > design.
> >
> > > I'm replacing the old gas tank with a new plastic
> > tank
> > > which will help b/c the panel doesn't work anymore
> > and
> > > i'll be able to see the gas level with having to
> > get a
> > > new instrument panel.
> >
> > The old tank can be steam cleaned at most radiator
> > shops. A new
> > Stewart-Warner sending unit will set you back about
> > $20.00 and should
> > restore you dash guage (it did on mine). Be sure to
> > replace all rubber fuel
> > lines and water hoses.
> >
> > The soft flooring is a serious problem but you can
> > fix it with a little
> > patience. The seats are retained with captive
> > t-nuts, but they are the least
> > of your problems. You need to get in there and get
> > the mositure out. It's
> > not terribly expensive, just hard, just messy and
> > just time consuming. Don't
> > give up it will be worth it!
> >
> > The best advice I can give you is found on two other
> > boating related
> > websites:
> > http://fiberglassics.com/
> > and
> >
> http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/centerDeckRepair.html
> >
> > Good luck and keep me posted.
> >
> > Lee Shuster
> > Salt Lake City
> >
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Jared Bourquin" <jaredbourquin97@...>
> > To: <omc-boats@...>
> > Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 2004 1:08 PM
> > Subject: 1966 Evinrude
> >
> >
> > > Hello,
> > >
> > > I recently acquired a 1966 Evinrude Sportsman with
> > a
> > > 150hp V-6. It's a fixer upper. The previous
> > owner
> > > had it sitting out and hasn't been run for 5 or 6
> > > years. I've cleaned it out and put in new lube,
> > oil,
> > > replaced the bilge, new key ignition, so on and so
> > > forth.
> > >
> > > I'm new to boat ownership and the old outdoor
> > carpet
> > > has completely rotted out. I want to put in some
> > > replacement carpet but have a few questions that I
> > > though you guys could help me with. The vinyl is
> > > still intact on the seats and they look like it'll
> > > clean up nicely. The webbing under the seat i'm
> > going
> > > to replace by weaving vinyl twine under the seat.
> > >
> > > It seems some of the foam has rotted out in some
> > areas
> > > in the floor, in other words in some spots the
> > > flooring is soft. How do I replace the old floor
> > > discs that hold the seat brackets in place? The
> > one
> > > i've pulled has a nut imbedded in foam under the
> > > fiberglass, but the area has rotted out so putting
> > it
> > > back into place will be impossible. Any ideas?
> > Being
> > > new to boats I don't know how to replace them and
> > am
> > > willing to use a work around to set them back into
> > the
> > > flooring.
> > >
> > > Also i'm missing the seat brackets for the two
> > back
> > > seats. Anyone know where I can get some?
> > >
> > > I'm replacing the old gas tank with a new plastic
> > tank
> > > which will help b/c the panel doesn't work anymore
> > and
> > > i'll be able to see the gas level with having to
> > get a
> > > new instrument panel.
> > >
> > > Also any pointers about the boat, misc. info would
> > > help as well.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > >
> > > Jared Bourquin
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > __________________________________
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> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
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> ------------------------------
>
> End of omc-boats-digest V1 #159
> *******************************
>
>
Received on Monday, 7 June 2004

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